Secrets of the City

Outsiders may know Baltimore for the Harbor, the Orioles, or The
Wire, but anybody who spends more than a weekend—or an episode—here
knows that this city is a jackpot of unique and varied treasures. We’ve
compiled 101 things that give Baltimore its charm, from Lenny’s House of
Naturals (No. 94) and the American Visionary Art Museum’s Kinetic
Sculpture Race (No. 23) to An die Musik (No. 92)—things anybody who
considers themselves a true Baltimorean must experience.

Cheap Ethnic Eats

1. The massive “STOP” sign on the awning out front of Kabab Stop (5719
Falls Rd., 410-323-6060) screams “fast food,” but the delicate Indian
dishes at this Mt. Washington outlet are anything but. At $8.95, the
lunch buffet is an unbeatable value. Chicken tikka masala, vegetable
dal, and saag paneer are all delicious, but the tandoori chicken is the
show-stopper: While the reddish barbecued chicken—cooked traditionally
in a clay oven—is often dry elsewhere, it is blessedly moist and tender
here.

2. The restaurant part of Europe (4147
Labyrinth Rd., 410-764-0722), just off lower Reisterstown Road in
Northwest Baltimore, opens at 8:30 p.m. and is notoriously filled with
revelers from the area’s Russian community until the wee hours. But you
can sample the delectable goods at the adjoining market during daylight
hours. Unless you speak the language, don’t bother trying to order any
of the hulking, heavy entrees by name, just point. A spiral of fish
fillets with vegetable stuffing and pork- and veal-stuffed dumplings are
dynamite, and $3 or $4 a pound. For $20, a couple could sample half a
dozen dishes and leave very satisfied.

3. We’ve always loved sweet little La Cazuela (La
Cazuela, 1718 Eastern Ave., 410-522-9485), with its sun-yellow dining
room and friendly service, and now that the economy has tanked, its
rock-bottom prices (entrees hover around $12-15) and huge portions are
more welcome than ever. The solid, hearty Ecuadoran food bears
similarities to both Central and South American cuisine—lots of corn,
plantains, and queso fresco from the former; the grilled meats of the
latter—and a killer platter of camarones (that’s shrimp to you, gringo)
dubbed “la Ecuatoriano,” which is straight from the shores of owner
Marina Tapia’s home country. It’s one of the best of the Latino
community’s many restaurants in Fells Point.

4. The clean, well-lit, and spacious (albeit no frills) space at Nak Won (12
W. 20th St., 410-244-5501) in Little Korea is as welcoming as the
waitstaff, who will immediately start you off with glasses of warm tea,
quickly followed by an array of fiery sauces and excellent panchan—those
little dishes of kimchi and other marinated and pickled vegetables that
could comprise a meal in themselves. But you won’t want to stop there,
especially when Nak Won’s versions of Korean classics, like the
Frisbee-sized seafood pancake, tabletop barbecue, and bibimbap, are so
rich, comforting, and cheap. Count on a $30 tab for two if you want more
than you could possibly eat, and add beers to put out the fire of Nak
Won’s incendiary condiments.

5. Tiny, storefront eatery Tortilleria Sinaloa (1716
Eastern Ave., 410-276-3741) in the heart of Baltimore’s Latino land
delivers quality, authentic Mexican food for just a few pesos. The
tamales, above, are among the best in town, but our favorite indulgence
is the fish taco ($4.75), a moist, seared tilapia on soft tortillas
(made fresh daily). Condiments, like red- and green-chile sauces, add a
pleasant kick, while fresh guacamole and salsa soothe the zing. This
pleasant space has a counter if you want to stay and soak up the
culture. Frida Kahlo-like art, El Tiempo Latino newspapers, and colorful
pottery add to the charm.

6. Okay, with entrees in the $20 range, spectacularly popular Greek gem Samos (600
Oldham St., 410-675-5292) pushes the “cheap” label, but platters of
homemade Greek spreads (like the killer taramasolata) or warm mezedes
like haloumi with grilled shrimp or spinach pie, are among the best
values in the city. Or take “The Tour of Samos,” a massive 11-item meal
for two priced at $45; you’ll be dining for days on this fabulous feast.
Just remember to bring cash and the libation of your choice (Samos is
BYOB), and come early. No reservations, and the place fills up fast. One
taste and you’ll know why.

7. We would frequent tiny carryout spot Trinidad Gourmet (418
E. 31st St., 410-243-0072) just to experience the gentle ministrations
of owner Mr. Chuck, who takes pride in guiding you through the ins and
outs of his home-cooked Trini delights—a wonderful fusion of
Afro-Caribbean and Southeast Asian flavors. But no matter who’s minding
the store, you won’t want to miss some of the absolute best comfort food
in the city—try the curried chicken roti or the ambrosial oxtail stew,
or pretty much anything it’s offering, including the homemade cakes.
Heaping platters of greatness at low, low prices—entrees, priced from
$7-12, are big enough for two people or two days of eating.

8. Famous Yakitori One (2101
Maryland Ave., 410-332-1100) is an underground gem, truly—step down into
the unassuming storefront and magically materialize where the cool kids
might eat in Seoul. A range of the namesake grilled/skewered offerings
are lightly seasoned and well-charred, often filling the space with
sweet smoke—bacon/enoki mushroom (moist, earthy) and chicken gizzard
(resilient) are excellent—and all are under $3. Tempura is stunningly
well-executed, adorned in crispy nubs. Curry ramen, a favorite of Asian
college students, is comforting awesomeness, and, before 7 p.m. on
weekdays, get a tall bottle of sake with your meal for a penny.

Places To Watch A Game

9. O’s fans shouldn’t knock the new Hilton Hotel (401
W. Pratt St., 443-573-8700) until they try watching a game from one of
their “ballpark view” rooms. With 330 rooms with a view of Camden Yards
(including 10 VIP suites with balconies overlooking the park), the rooms
are ideal for a weekend stay or one-night party. If you’re afraid you
won’t notice the details of the games, Matthew Dykstra, director of
sales and marketing at the Hilton, insists, “You can hear every crack of
the bat.”

10. If you want to pop into Slainte (1702
Thames St., 410-563-6600) for a quick bite or drink during a soccer
match, you ought to be prepared. The bar gets packed from wall-to-wall
with a boisterous crowd wearing jerseys, speaking in British and Irish
accents, and never once being caught without a drink in hand. We can
only imagine what it will be like when the world’s number-one soccer
show, World Soccer Daily, broadcasts live from Slainte during the
Chelsea vs. AC Milan game at M&T Bank Stadium on July 24. Pure
chaos, we assume.

11. Lacrosse is to Baltimore as football is to Texas. That is never more evident than at a Hopkins lacrosse game at Homewood Field (3400
N. Charles St.)—especially one against rivals like University of
Virginia or University of Maryland. The field’s lights shine down on
thousands of spectators as the student band peps everyone up. The
fast-paced agility of the talented Blue Jays is exciting enough to keep
every fan hooked, even when it’s not exactly our year.

12. Roller derby bouts at Du Burns Arena (1301
S. Ellwood Ave., 443-573-2450) aren’t for the faint of heart. The seven
all-female teams that make up the Charm City Roller Girls league battle
it out monthly at the arena, where broken bones are the norm. Tattooed
roller girls speedily skate around the oval track, trying to block or
score for their team, with bodies regularly falling and thudding on the
rink’s floor. But despite the trash talk and bruising, the players take
the rules—and pride in their hometown—very seriously: When all-star
players from the seven teams unite to take on New York’s Gotham Girls or
D.C. Rollergirls, the competitive spirit is kicked up even higher.

Awesome Animals

13. If you think you have to travel some place near the equator to see wild animals roaming free, think again: At Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo (13019
Catoctin Furnace Rd., 301-271-3180), you can take safaris around the
50-acre park on a retired, open-air army truck and actually reach out
and pet Malachi the camel, above, along with bison, bears, boas, lions,
lemurs, macaws, monkeys, and panthers—okay, you probably don’t want to
pet the lions, but it’s nice to know you could if you wanted to.

14. David Hasselhoff and Christian Siriano aren’t the only locals to have made it big on television: Margaret the Brazilian Hyacinth Macaw, a star at the National Aquarium (501 E. Pratt St., 410-576-3800, aqua.org)
recently made her TV debut as a guest on The Martha Stewart Show for a
segment on endangered species. One of only a handful of her species in
captivity, Margaret dazzles guests with her gorgeous royal blue feathers
and yellow face.

15. Babies are adorable—even if they weigh 1,100 pounds, like Samson the tot elephant at the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore (Druid Hill Park, 410-396-7102, marylandzoo.org).
Born just a year ago, this star attraction gains about 2.5 pounds a
day. “His behavior is like the kid at the mall you don’t notice,” says
his keeper. “Quiet and well mannered—but still social and not shy at
all.” His favorite moment? His daily bath. “He gets very excited,” says
the keeper. “He’ll flop around in the soap suds.”

Daytrips You Never Thought Of

16. Oft-overlooked historic North East, MD, (northeastchamber.org)
only 50 miles from Baltimore, is an amazing discovery for many locals.
Located on the Northeast River at the head of the Chesapeake Bay in
Cecil County, its quaint Main Street beckons with shops like Saffron
Creek (home accents and gifts) and The Silver Buckle, whose colorful
porch lures visitors inside to see the baubles. No visit would be
complete without a stop at Woody’s Crab House, where you’ll find one of
the best crab cakes in the state. Walk off your meal at the 13-acre
North East Community Park on the water. The Upper Bay Museum is there
with a collection of artifacts that reflects the upper bay’s fishing and
hunting heritage.

17. Tiny, riverfront Delaware City, DE, (visitthefort.com; delawarecity.delaware.gov)
about 1 1/2 hours from Charm City, may not be as developed as
Wilmington or Philadelphia, but it boasts history-drenched Fort
Delaware, a Union fortress dating to 1859. The hulking granite structure
on Pea Patch Island once housed Confederate prisoners of war. Visitors
take a half-mile ferry ride ($11 for adults; kids are free) from
Delaware City. Once there, costumed reenactors take you back to the
summer of 1864, complete with period language and politics: Woe to
anyone who shows Southern sympathies! Return to the mainland for the
town’s quaint stores and a smattering of restaurants. Baltimoreans will
be familiar with Crabby Dick’s, which used to be in Fells Point. Grab a
seat on the narrow, outdoor porch overlooking the Delaware River and
enjoy a shrimp salad “sammich.”

18. Pennsylvania’s Longwood Gardens is world-famous for its horticulture, but a few minutes’ detour lands you in Historic Kennett Square, PA, (historickennettsquare.com)
where shops, galleries, bookstores, and gourmet restaurants (definitely
check out Talula’s Table, a boutique gourmet market) line the streets.
It’s a walkable community that also offers a peek into one of Southern
Chester County, PA’s, chief crops—mushrooms: 51 percent of the nation’s
mushroom crop is grown here! The farms may be several miles away, but
The Mushroom Cap on West State Street is all about the fungi. Besides
mushroom-decorated gifts, cookbooks, and artwork, it offers fresh-picked
mushrooms, including white, portobello, shiitake, and oyster varieties.

19. See where Maryland’s first citizens lived and explore what life was like at the state’s original capital, St. Mary’s City, MD (stmaryscity.org).
Costumed interpreters turn back the clock to the 17th century and share
the workings of the Colonial town. Outdoor exhibits include the
reconstructed State House, a tobacco plantation, Indian hamlet, and a
replica of The Maryland Dove, the ship that brought intrepid settlers to
the New World. Visitors also can take part in many hands-on activities
on special-event weekends from working with archaeologists and churning
butter to shooting bows and arrows and watching a militia drill. Snacks
are available at the gift shop. If you want heartier grub, there are the
usual chains, like Chipotle and Damon’s, in nearby Lexington Park.
Nothing like blending the old with the new.

20. Ever wonder what President Obama sees when he stays at Camp David? Visit Cunningham Falls State Park near Thurmont, MD, (thurmont.net)
and you’ll view the same verdant scenery. At this 5,000-acre preserve
in the Catoctin Mountains, there are miles of trails to hike as well as a
picturesque 78-foot cascading waterfall. Of course, Camp David is off
limits to most of us, but if you visit the Cozy Restaurant in downtown
Thurmont, you’ll probably bump into lots of media folks, who hang out
there when the President is mulling over matters of state at his
retreat. The popular eatery—known for its sumptuous country buffets—has
been around since 1929 and even has a Camp David Museum. After you’ve
filled your tummy, head to the nearby Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo
(see No. 13).

21. At three-plus-hours drive from the city, Tangier Island, VA, (tangierisland-va.com)
is a bit far for a day trip, but worth seeking out for its rustic
beauty, dramatic sunsets, and local dialect that’s been likened to
Elizabethan English. Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant and Jimmy Page have
been known to visit the idyllic spot, where bikes are the primary mode
of transportation. (There are three cars on the island: a taxi, a
delivery truck, and one curious vehicle that belongs to an elderly
resident.) Take a boat to the island from Crisfield, stay at Shirley’s
Bay View Inn B&B or any of the lovely accommodations on the island,
and enjoy the plentiful seafood and anything else that the tide brings
you.

Places to Break a Sweat

22. Though this could be the spookiest way to break a sweat, Gwynn Falls Trail offers
campfire hikes from 6-8 p.m. Families (ages 6 and up) can hike the
trails, spot owls and bats, roast s’mores, and tell scary stories by the
campfire. Of course, Gwynn Falls also offers more traditional
activities, like bike treks, afternoon hikes, and gardening classes.

23. If you think you have what it takes to conceive,
build, and race a giant pink people-powered poodle up Boston Street,
you might be ready for theBaltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race (hosted, of course, by the American Visionary Art Museum, kineticbaltimore.com)—which
pits amphibious, all-terrain, human-run works of art against each
other. The eight-hour race covers 15 miles and includes an obstacle
course, a dip into the Chesapeake Bay, and awards for finishing next to
last and breaking down.

24. Mt. Washington’s The Studio Edge (1425
Clarkview Rd., No. 500, 410-296-4955) is not your typical gym. In
hula-hooping classes, the childhood pastime is a full-body workout: You
exercise abdominal and back muscles, improve posture, slim the waist,
and flatten the stomach. They also have classes that use ballet barre
work, sexually inspired movements (ahem!), and belly dancing to shed
pounds.

25. The name is kind of deceiving. Canton Kayak Club actually
has docks throughout the city, including Dundalk, Locust Point, and
Harbor East. The club’s 400-plus members—who pay $150 dues for
May-October—get a training course and have unlimited use of the kayaks
for the entire season. No reservations are necessary, making this
exercise probably the most stress free one in town.

26. Out-of-towners look at those squat pins and tiny
balls and think, “This is bowling?” Heck, yeah, Hon! Duckpin bowling,
which, according to legend, was created around 1900 in Charm City and
counts Babe Ruth among its fans, is an institution here, beloved to
locals, bizarre to almost everybody else. For the Baltimore experience,
pick up a sixer of Natty Boh and go to the all-duckpin Patterson Bowling Center (2105
Eastern Ave. 410-675-1011) in Canton, which dates to 1927: Two hours of
bowling, including shoes, is $13. At dem prices, you could even pick up
some Berger cookies and Utz crab chips, too!

Unique Boutiques

27. Worth the drive to Frederick, downtown shop The Muse (19
N. Market St., 301-663-3632) offers an ever-changing assortment of
handcrafted goodies and accessories. Owner Whitney Bingham finds both
local and national artists (some well known, others up and coming) and
displays them in her light-filled shop. Favorites include Hardwear by
Renee, an Oregon artist who creates bags from recycled materials (like
race car vinyl and cables) and locals like Rebekah with a K (who weaves
leather scraps into funky cuffs), Chrissy Gemmill Jewels, and Courtney
Prahl’s mixed media collages. There are also wine, cheese, and craft
parties and artist receptions.

28. Love Allie Boutique (1201 Light St.,
410-685-LOVE) owner Carolyn Strong—inspired by past designers and hip
style makers like Twiggy, Mary Quant, André Courrèges, Josephine Baker,
Anne Lowe, and Naomi Simms—launched her Federal Hill boutique about a
year ago. The little corner shop, open only Thursday-Saturday, houses
labels you’ve probably never heard of before: Hazel Nuts, Bezemymailan,
Frenzii, Sally Tseng, and Dittos—all very feminine and flirty. Sort of
like the store’s grandma-chic interior—vintage chandelier and wallpaper,
Victorian curtains—if granny was some French hottie in a former life.

29. Part gallery space, part marketplace, The Magnificent: An Art Salon (1615
Shakespeare St., 410-563-2709) houses the jewelry, paintings,
sculptures, textiles, and other stuff of several artists in the ground
floor of a Fells Point row home. Just off Broadway, it’s easy to wander
past or come at the wrong time (they’re open Wednesday-Sunday 12-7
p.m.). But it’s worth being persistent. It’s an ever-revolving door of
fresh, new artists (many local, many not) and their often one-of-a-kind
merchandise like Melissa Finelli’s jewelry, Amy Steven’s kooky art, Nick
Meyer’s photographs, and Zvezdana Rogic’s clothing.

30. The Book Thing of Baltimore Inc. (3001 Vineyard Ln., bookthing.org)
is a sort of biblio pay-it-forward. A weekend only (9 a.m.-6 p.m.) book
free-for-all where those no longer wanting books can donate and those
needing books can take. The volume of volumes is staggering, and while
there’s no Dewey Decimal System or online search engine, there’s also no
time limit. One can wander, and volunteers are often on hand to point
people in the right direction or offer suggestions. And unlike the
library (which, yes, is free, too), there’s no late fee or book limit,
only as many as you can carry.

31. Mt. Vernon’s Gentei (1010
Morton St., 410-244-8961) has a cool factor worthy of Brooklyn or
Boston’s South End. Among the merchandise: exclusive Japanese imports
like Garni and Calee, hard to find Nike SB and Vans Syndicate, and their
own Oakley Frogskin sunglasses (only 100 pairs worldwide). Like a
secret location, the shop is hidden on a downtown side street and gets a
complete overhaul twice a year—now it’s a motorcycle garage theme. A
more mainstream location in Towson (22 W. Allegheny Ave., No. 102,
410-339-3446) focuses on skate goods.

32. Ellicott City’s Mumbles & Squeaks Toy Shoppe (8133
Main St., 410-750-2803) is not for the claustrophobic or mega
strollered. Packed to the brim, this independent toy store doesn’t
(always) require batteries. Owner Frank DiPietro has been in the toy
business for more than 15 years and knows classic from common. There are
toys your kids will recognize (and beg for) like Playmobil, Thomas the
Tank Engine, Calico Critters, and Melissa & Doug, but also lots of
use-your-imagination puppets, puzzles, and blocks. The kind of stuff
that makes a parent wistful for childhood.

Cool Things to Do with Your Kids

33. Especially in the summer, Harborplace can be oppressively crowded. Skip it: Bring a picnic and take a water taxi to Tide Point’s waterfront park on
the site of the former Proctor & Gamble soap factory in Locust
Point. Enjoy the boardwalk, sculpture garden, hammocks and deck chairs,
and the sweeping view of the harbor—without getting trampled.

34. Toddlers’ lives are filled with things they
can’t touch, places they can’t go, and things they can’t do until
they’re older. Enter Storyville (6105 Kenwood Ave.,
410-887-0512). This giant play area in the Rosedale public library,
specifically designed for children under 5, is a hands-on play town,
complete with supermarket, library, construction site, theater, a house,
and other kid-sized venues to explore. Best of all, it’s totally free.

35. The Walters’s Chamber of Wonders (600
N. Charles St., 410-547-9000) packs artworks, scientific relics, and
intriguing knickknacks, into a busy, kid-friendly room that evokes a
17th century collection of curiosities. Trays of exotic insects, a
stuffed alligator, and cabinets of oddities vie for attention. And it’s
close to the Knights Hall, where you can play a game of checkers or
chess.

36. There’s a place for families to hang out at BWI
that doesn’t require making empty pocket potluck at the security
checkpoint. Located between Concourses B and C is the two-story BWI Observation Gallery.
On the first level is the children’s playground, complete with
miniature plane, luggage cart, and fuel truck. Upstairs are control
panels like the ones used by pilots and air traffic controllers. But the
main attraction is the 147-foot-long window overlooking the runways.
Grab a seat in one of the 25 rocking chairs, and watch the 737s pierce
the cumulonimbus.

Perches To People Watch

37. Those that miss old-school Baltimore need only go to Santoni’s Super Market (3800
E. Lombard St.) in Highlandtown to see that it’s alive and well and
browsing the aisles for five-pound jars of pig knuckles and cocktail
onions.

38. The classy Owl Bar (1 E. Chase
St.) on The Belvedere’s ground floor attracts a polished, elegant
clientele, from politicians (O’Malley, Dixon) and theater patrons to
students.

39. Club Charles (1724 N. Charles St.): Ever see Twin Peaks? Do you remember the Red Room? It’s kind of like that.

40. Dark, dingy, and strictly cash-only, Mount Royal Tavern (1204
W. Mt. Royal Ave.) appeals to broke, ironic MICA students, and
non-ironic . . . let’s call them dedicated drinkers—not that the two are
mutually exclusive.

41. Lexington Market (400 W.
Lexington St.), Baltimore’s most famous marketplace, crosses
generational, racial, and class divides, attracting a melting pot of the
city.

42. The parishioners at glorious Union Baptist Church (1219 Druid Hill Ave.) take “Sunday best” to a new level: The hats alone will blow your mind.

43. On The Avenue (W. 36th St.) in
Hampden, you might see bikers on souped-up hogs. You might see hipsters
in “how-can-they-breath-in-those?” skinny jeans. Most likely, you’ll see
both, possibly making out with each other.

44. No event except Artscape blends
Baltimore’s diverse demographics so well: artists and eccentrics,
suburban families, yuppies, hipsters, black, white, old, and young.

45. Stop by Skateland (8019 Belair
Rd.) in Putty Hill, a classic roller-skating rink, and spy everyone from
punky roller derby girls to hip-hop kids performing tricks under the
disco ball.

46. Go to Sullivan’s Steakhouse (1
E. Pratt St.) to see Baltimore’s athletic elite, from Michael Phelps and
Cal Ripken Jr., to Nick Markakis. Even Derek Jeter and Alex Rodriguez
stopped by when the Yanks were in town.

Unheralded Historic Spots

47. “I wish I could drink like a lady / I can take
one or two at the most / Three and I’m under the table / Four and I’m
under the host.” These are the words of Dorothy Parker—writer, poet, and
founding member of the Algonquin Round Table. Parker died in 1967 and
bequeathed her estate to the Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. foundation.
Following Dr. King’s assassination the next year, her estate passed on
to the NAACP. Two decades after her death, including more than 15
undignified years in her lawyer’s filing cabinet, Parker’s ashes were
finally entombed behind the NAACP headquarters in Northwest Baltimore (4805
Mount Hope Dr., 410-580-5795). Pay your respects anytime, but it’s
especially quiet on the weekends. Bring a flask to toast the old girl.

48. Towson’s Hampton Mansion (535
Hampton Ln., 410-823-1309), a stunning example of 18th century Georgian
architecture, was home to seven generations of Baltimore County’s
powerful and aristocratic Ridgley family. Upon completion in 1790,
Hampton stood alone as the largest private home in America. At its apex
in the 1820s, the estate covered 25,000 acres, including half of what is
present-day Baltimore. In 1948, following numerous land sales, the
house and remaining 43 acres was the first National Historic Site
selected by the National Park Service for architectural significance. In
2007, a three-year, $3 million renovation project was completed. The
money was well spent. Come walk the grounds (for free!) and see how the
other half lived.

49. The Mt. Washington Octagon, located on The Johns
Hopkins University’s Mt. Washington Conference Center campus (5801
Smith Ave.), was built in the 1850s as a finishing school, turning out
proper Southern ladies, including Belle Boyd, a notorious Confederate
spy who scratched her name into a first-floor windowpane with a diamond
ring. The pane is still there, but the school is long gone, driven out
of business by the Civil War. Later, the Octagon became Mount St. Agnes
College, which merged with Loyola in 1971. Hopkins bought it in 2003 and
uses it as a hotel, meaning the public can finally get a peak inside.

50. In 1926, an 11-year-old Billie Holiday lived at 217 and 219 S. Durham Street in
Fells Point. Durham was an alley reserved for the city’s lowliest poor.
It was a rough and grueling existence that scarred her soul, but
informed the music of a woman who could arguably be considered the
greatest jazz vocalist of all time. Park in the 1800 block of E. Pratt Street and approach from the north, or the 1800 block of Gough Street and
approach from the south. You’ll walk where Holiday once walked, and in
her songs like “God Bless the Child” and “Gloomy Sunday,” you’ll hear
the pain of her youth.

51. Turn down a quiet side street in the heart of
Fells Point, and you’ll find the expected row of red, brick façades
interrupted by a most unexpected site: a family burial ground. Inside a
small, walled-off chamber at 1607 Shakespeare Street,
under the fragrant boughs of a magnolia tree, the waterfront
neighborhood’s founding fathers rest in peace. There’s shipbuilder
William Fell, who originally purchased the 1,000-acre tract containing
present-day Fells Point; his son Colonel Edward, who laid out the
community’s streets in 1763; and his son, William, a sheriff and house
delegate. A ghostly apparition—assumed to be one of the Fells—has been
reported by late-night bar patrons. No word on if the specter was
astride a pink elephant.

52. It turns out we have Roland Park to blame for
the blight of suburban strip malls. When the planned garden
suburb—itself listed on the National Register of Historic Places—took
off in the late 1890s, it became apparent that the new denizens were
going to need more local businesses and services. Rather than
intersperse businesses among the community’s stately homes, why not
group them together in one plaza? Thus, in 1896, at the corner of Roland Avenue and Upland Road,
the country’s first planned shopping center was built. The English
Tudor-style structure still serves the community today housing banks,
offices, and Petit Louis Bistro.

53. Anyone who has ever stepped foot in Bolton Hill knows
it’s a charming, historic neighborhood. But do you know just how
historic it actually is? Turns out luminaries in the fields of politics,
art, education, science, and literature have been calling Bolton Hill
home since the mid-19th century. Notable residents include F. Scott
Fitzgerald (1307 Park Ave.), art collectors and BMA benefactors Dr.
Claribel and Etta Cone (1711 Eutaw Pl.), alleged Cold War spy Alger Hiss
(1427 Linden Ave.), civil rights leader Lillie Carroll Jackson (1320
Eutaw Pl.), and President Woodrow Wilson, when he was a Ph.D. student at
The Johns Hopkins University (1210 Eutaw Pl.). An effort to affix blue
plaques to more than 30 hallowed residences is underway with some
already up, making self-guided walking tours an easy option for history
buffs.

Underground Venues

54. Bright, stylishly-designed recording facility Mobtown Studios (2603
N. Charles St., 410-235-0898) hosts monthly micro-shows.
Husband-and-wife duo Matthew and Emily Leffler Schulman curate the
series, featuring indie-alternative types such as Eureka Birds and Ellen
Cherry amid vintage keyboards and state of the art gear. With room for
just 30 people and, perhaps, three performers onstage, these free shows
are cozy and adventurous.

55. The loft space on the sixth floor of the H&H building at 405 W. Franklin Street, called The Floristree,
has incubated many of the indie-rock and electronica musicians that
have earned Baltimore a national reputation, including Dan Deacon, Beach
House, and Double Dagger. The venue—a warehouse space where six guys
actually live—doesn’t serve alcohol but still occupies a zoning gray
area. For a long time, Floristree’s unpublished location was a secret
cherished by those in the know, but hosting the recent Transmodern
Festival (featuring Deacon), and posting the address on the fest’s
website seems to signal a new openness and, perhaps, a détente with The
Man. Let’s hope so.

56. One of the area’s best jazz venues is tucked inside an elegant house at 6004 Hollins Avenue near Lake Roland. Jazzway 6004
hosts the likes of Carl Grubbs, Lafayette Gilchrist, Gary Thomas, Jay
Clayton, Joel Holmes, and George Colligan in an intimate setting
(capacity 60-65) that, in addition to the amazing music, also features
home-cooked meals. Tickets must be bought in advance through Jazzway’s
website, jazzway6004.org.

Bizarre Museums

57. The Baltimore Tattoo Museum (1534 Eastern Ave., 410-522-5800, baltimoretattoomuseum.net)
tracks ink’s history from a badge of sailors and bikers to must-have
for Hollywood stars and twentysomethings. Tour the exhibits, then get a
paste-on tat from the gift shop—or a real one from one of seven in-house
artists.

58. D.C. can keep Air and Space, we’ll go to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Dentistry downtown (31 S. Greene St., 410-706-0600,dentalmuseum.org) to see George Washington’s choppers (not made of wood, after all) and sing along to vintage toothpaste ads.

59. See the icons of the black experience at the National Great Blacks In Wax Museum (1601
E. North Ave., 410-563-3404), which uses life-like wax figures to bring
history alive. Witness the horrors of slave ships and hold one-sided
conversations with underground railroad heroine Harriet Tubman, crooner
Billie Holiday, and, the latest addition, Mr. President.

60. and 61. The best two-fer in town starts at the Sports Legends Museum at Camden Yards (301 W. Camden St., 410-727-1539, baberuthmuseum.com),
a 22,000-square-foot homage to local sports heroes from Johnny Unitas
to the stars of Baltimore’s Negro Leagues. Go upstairs to Geppi’s Entertainment Museum (410-625-7060, geppismuseum.com),
owned by Baltimore publisher Steve Geppi, to explore American pop
culture, including the original Action Comics book No. 1 with Superman’s
debut, the 1963 GI Joe prototype, and the first Barbie.

Hot Neighborhood Blocks

62. Station North
The once gritty zone bordered by Penn Station and MICA has bloomed into a flourishing arts district.

Joe Squared (133 W. North Ave.) Joe not only makes great pizza but he founded the Station North Spring Music Festival. Station North Arts Cafe Gallery (1816 N. Charles St.) is one of many new music, art and performance hubs, along with Metro Gallery (1700 N. Charles St.), and Windup Space (12 W. North Ave.). Charles Theatre (1711 N. Charles St.) is the city’s best—and only—place for art-house movies.

Also: Load of Fun (120 W. North Ave.), Tapas Teatro (1711 N. Charles St.)

63. Harbor East
The onetime industrial wasteland between the Harbor and Fells Point has become the city’s premier dining and shopping district.

Charleston (1000 Lancaster St.) is the flagship of Cindy Wolf’s dining empire, and the city’s best restaurant. Her Italian gem Cinghiale (822 Lancaster St.) is across the street. Glarus Chocolatier (644 S. Exeter St.) offers high-end decadent delights, while South Moon Under(815 Aliceanna St.) has terrific handbags and clothes and Benjamin Lovell Shoes (618 S. Exeter St.) carries great men’s and women’s shoes.

Also: Maryland Athletic Club (655 President St.), Bin 604 (604 S. Exeter St.)

64. Hamilton
The stretch of great restaurants,
bars, and shops on Harford Road spans Lauraville and Hamilton and keeps
getting longer—and better.

Hamilton Tavern (5517 Harford Rd.) is a warm setting
for a beer and one of the best burgers in town. Among the many prime
breakfast outposts areClementine (5402 Harford Rd.) and the brand new themed diner Lost in the ’50s (5512 Harford Rd.). For possibly the city’s best barbecue, try Big Bad Wolf(5713 Harford Rd.), then stroll it off on the way toStudio 55 Art Gallery (5529 Harford Rd.).

Also: Red Canoe Bookstore Cafe (4337 Harford Rd.),Chameleon Cafe (4341 Harford Rd.)

65. Highlandtown/Patterson Park
Highlandtown is the focal point for a development boom that now surrounds much of glorious Patterson Park.

Creative Alliance (3134 Eastern Ave.) has created a thriving cultural center at the former Patterson Theater. What goes better with culture than Matthew’s Pizzeria (3131 Eastern Ave.), a perennial contender for city’s best. Get fresh roasted coffee and some literature at High Grounds Books (3201 Eastern Ave.) before heading to the glorious Highlandtown Farmers’ Market (Bank & Conkling Sts.).

Also: Laughing Pint (3531 Gough St.), DiPasquale’s (3700 Gough St.)

Local Radio

66. George “Doc” Manning digs
deeply through the crates, playing jazz heavyweights like Coltrane and
Miles alongside local luminaries such as Lafayette Gilchrist and Gary
Bartz every Monday night on WEAA. Manning possesses a rich voice,
thorough knowledge of the material, and an unpretentious manner, making In the Tradition the quintessential jazz show.

67. Aaron Henkin and Lisa Morgan deftly mix keen observation and timely programming to cover the region’s cultural community onWYPR’s The Signal. And they do it with smarts and a sense of adventure that richly underscores their mission.

68. Ravens’ receiver Derrick Mason isn’t your average jock, and The Derrick Mason Show on WBAL radio
reflects that: Unlike athletes prone to ego-driven diatribes (the
Terrell Owens types) or mind-numbing cliches (almost everyone else),
Mason offers candid opinions and insightful analysis that don’t always
follow the company line.

69. Every Tuesday night, Sam Sessa welcomes a local band to WTMD’s Baltimore Unsigned,
which highlights a wide-ranging array of the area’s best artists, from
jazz singer Felicia Carter to indie rockers Wye Oak. The show gets extra
credit for posting in-studio performances on its website and
facilitating last year’s cross-genre collaboration between local folkie
Caleb Stine and hip-hop emcee Saleem.

Hidden Green Spaces

70. The Northwest Baltimore Park Golf Driving Range (2101
W. Rogers Ave., 410-664-2824) is perfect for those who want to work on
their swing without committing to a full day on the links. Tucked away
in leafy Mt. Washington, the driving range is open seven days a week,
offering buckets of balls for $5 to $9. You can even get a lesson from
former LPGA player Jamie Watson if you feel like you’ve got more slices
than an Italian deli (goals4golf.com).
As an extra bonus, there are adjacent playing fields with soccer and
lacrosse nets, ideal for hosting the pickup games summer evenings seem
to inspire.

71. Often overshadowed by Patterson Park and Druid Hill, Herring Run Park,
below, seems to have developed something of an inferiority complex.
Check out this description from the park’s official Myspace page: “Yeah
other trails might be longer and other parks have more amenities, but
this park is for everyday people.” We say: Don’t sell yourself short,
Herring Run! With a super committed Watershed Association, numerous
playing fields, hiking and biking trails, and excellent bird watching,
the Belair-Edison park has enough to tempt any outdoor enthusiast.

72. Running on asphalt is notoriously hard on the
joints and sucking in car exhaust adds to the already arduous task of
exercising. Thankfully, Stony Run Park offers an
alternative to pounding the pavement in the city. More a trail than a
“park,” Stony Run parallels Roland Avenue from Northern Parkway to West
University Parkway. The dirt path (some sections of the trail have a
cushy woodchip footing) follows a restored streambed, which can offer a
nice breeze on those hazy, hot, and humid Baltimore summer evenings and
is a favorite for joggers and pet owners out for morning and evening
strolls.

73. You don’t expect to find an outdoor amphitheater
surrounded by rare tree specimans at your local high school, but that’s
exactly what the residents of Catonsville have in theLurman Woodland Theatre (421 Bloomsbury Ave., lurman.com).
Located on the grounds of Catonsville High, the theater is named after
German immigrant Gustav W. Lurman Sr., who owned the former farmland in
1848. Through the generations, the family land holdings dwindled until
Gustav’s granddaughter, Frances D. Lurman, sold the remaining 65 acres
to the Baltimore County Board of Education in 1948. An outdoor
amphitheater was opened in 1965 but fell dormant throughout the ’70s and
’80s. In 1992, the bowl-shaped glen once again began hosting free
evening concerts in warm weather, a tradition it continues this summer
with everything from bluegrass to barbershop chorales.

74. It’s amazing what you can find in Baltimore when you look. Case in point: Holt Park and Holt Center for the Arts (34
Elmont Ave.). Down a dead-end street in Overlea-Fullerton, Holt Park is
13 acres of woodland, wetlands, and meadows, boasting nature trails,
gardens, a lily pond, an outdoor amphitheater with a gazebo, an
arboretum, several log houses, and a labyrinth with a meditation garden
path. Next door, housed in the former home of the park’s namesake,
painter and educator Lillian McCormick Holt, is the Holt Center for the
Arts, which offers a full schedule of visual and performing arts
activities for kids and adults.

75. Haven’t heard of Maryland Sunrise Farm (100
Dairy Ln., Gambrills, 410-923-0726)? Maybe you’ll recognize its former
identity: the United States Naval Academy Dairy Farm, which provided
milk for the Naval Academy from 1917 to 1998. Now in its second life as
the state’s largest certified organic farm, producing eggs, beef, corn,
soybeans, and hay for local markets, the farm is periodically open to
the public for special events, including an 11-acre corn maze and a
haunted barn in the fall. Year-round, the farm offers horseback riding
lessons, because, as the Woody Guthrie lyric that adorns the farm’s
high, white, perimeter fence says, “This land is your land.”

Places To Go at 3 a.m.

76. Nestled in the tiny but refreshingly authentic
Korean corner of Station North is one of the city’s best after-hours
spots. The ragtag awning along Maryland Avenue near 21st Street with
Korean characters and little rainbows marks Rainbow Music Studios (2126
Maryland Ave., 410-783-0229), the only truly authentic karaoke bar in
Baltimore. In the tradition of outlets in Korea and Japan, Rainbow (open
Mon.-Sat. from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m.), rents out small rooms where friends
can bring their own booze and belt out “Sister Christian” to their
hearts’ content. If you’ve never experienced this brand of karaoke,
you’re missing out. As an added bonus, the fantastic Korean BBQ spot
upstairs, Nam Kang (410-685-6237), is also open until 4
a.m. and will gladly deliver samsung jampong (spicy seafood noodle
soup)—or anything else—directly to your room.

77. There is a moment, after a night of high-energy
drinking, dancing, and/or carousing, when it would be nice to extend a
night with friends, while drastically reducing the energy level. Enter
hookah bar Zeeba Lounge (916 Light St., 410-539-7900),
the perfect nightcap after spending a raucous evening at the various
bars in Federal Hill. While sitting on ottomans, you can casually smoke
sweet shisha (or not), nibble on a hummus plate, sip alcohol you brought
in, and enjoy the lounge’s otherworldly feel.

78. There are plenty of local diners for late-night
revelers with the munchies: Canton’s Sip & Bite, Fells Point’s Blue
Moon (which actually opens at 11 p.m. on weekends), and the
Food-Network-championed Broadway Diner in Highlandtown are all excellent
options. But for the sheer camp and warmth that only Charm City can
provide, we prefer Valentino’s (6627 Harford Rd.,
410-254-4700), where the uber-friendly waitstaff wears tuxedos right up
until the 5 a.m. closing time (open 24 hours on weekends) and the walls
are plastered with black-and-white posters of the joint’s patron saint,
silent film star Rudolph Valentino.

Baltimore-centric Corners of the Web

79. Local foodies appreciate Baltimore Snacker (baltimoresnacker.blogspot.com), a humorous, often-updated look at food and drink around the city. Also worth a mention are Mango & Ginger and Dining Dish.

80. The Baltimore Examiner is gone and The Sun is cutting resources, but watchdog journalism is alive and well at Investigative Voice (investigativevoice.com), a site run by ex-Examiner reporters.

81. Baltimore has lots of great music sites, like Beatbots and Government Names, but Aural States (auralstates.com) takes the cake with passionate album and show reviews and the rocking festival they put on in February.

82. If the more than 100,000 sellers on craft site etsy.com seem overwhelming, check out the wondrous wares of the Baltimore Etsy Street Team (baltimore-etsy.blogspot.com), so you can buy handmade and local.

83. Gerald Neilly, the infrastructure-obsessed proprietor of Baltimore Innerspace (baltimoreinnerspace.blogspot.com) is among the deeply knowledgeable contributors giving context to local news at Baltimore Brew (baltimorebrew.com).

84. The Loss Column (thelosscolumn.com)
covers all things Orioles and Ravens, plus local college teams and
more, with intelligence, energy, wit, and a particular respect for the
history of sports in Baltimore.

Vestiges of Old Baltimore

85. The Maryland State Fair is
referred to as “The 11 Best Days of Summer,” and for seven of those
days, you can watch the ponies run the 5/8 mile oval in the glorious
setting locals have enjoyed for decades. Paid admission to the fair
allows entry to the track, so give the kids some ride tickets and sneak
over to the grandstand. Nothing beats Maryland State Fair Thoroughbred
Racing in Timonium for the sheer joy of standing in the summer sun
sipping a beer, hearing the merry-go-round music, and watching the
horses race for home.

86. At some point in your life, you deserve to drink
a grown-up cocktail in a place where a grown-up would drink a cocktail.
Ride the elevator to the 13th Floor at the Belvedere Hotel (1
E. Chase St., 410-347-0888) and step back in time. Years ago, there was
a jacket-and-tie requirement here. Those days are over, but the
leopard-print carpet speaks to a bygone era. The bar opens at 5 p.m.
Tuesday-Saturday. Show up as early as possible, before it gets too
hectic, and order a martini, Manhattan, or something along those lines.
Take a seat by the big window and watch the day come to an end in a most
civilized fashion.

87. Every summer, thousands flock to Hampden for HonFest,
a celebration of a purely Baltimore phenomenon: The Hon. No description
is necessary, you’ll know her when you see her: She’ll be wearing
spandex pants, bright-blue eye shadow, and coiffed with a beehive
hairdo. At Phyllis’ Hair Design(528 S. Conkling St..
410-675-6715), serving East Baltimore for 60 years, Carol Pressman and
her band of beauticians still do beehives the old-fashioned way—lots of
hairspray and curlers.

88. Ask 20 Baltimoreans what the best crab house is
and you’ll get 20 answers. We take the subject very seriously. In the
past, names like Connolly’s, Gordon’s, Bud’s, and Glenmore Gardens would
have been among those given to the aforementioned query. Today they’re
all gone. Only Obrycki’s (1727 E. Pratt St.,
410-732-6399), a Baltimore landmark since 1944, remains. For that reason
alone it’s worth the trip—literally the last of a dying breed.

89. Like a blue blazer, The Valley Inn (10501
Falls Rd., 410-828-8080) is neither in style nor out of style—it is
style. The Falls Road landmark predates the Civil War, its wooden floors
worn by the hushed passage of time. It’s the kind of place where you
can ask for a mint julep with a straight face and it will be made
properly. Bourbon on the rocks is presented in the correct glass. Veal
oscar and lobster Newburg are still on the menu, served by waitresses
like Mary Ryan and Helen Nolan—almost five decades of experience between
them.

90. Old St. Paul’s Cemetery, hidden
behind high walls and bounded by W. Lombard Street, MLK Jr. Boulevard,
and W. Redwood Street, is remarkable for its star power. Formerly an
enormous burying ground, its size was reduced as the city grew up around
it. The nearby Westminster Hall and Burying Ground boasts Edgar Allan
Poe’s grave site, but what’s he done lately? Rick Tomlinson, the verger
of Old St. Paul’s (410-243-0407) will unlock the gates. Commune with the
spirits of Revolutionary War hero John Eager Howard, defender of Fort
McHenry George Armistead, and the only signer of the Declaration of
Independence to be buried in Baltimore, Samuel Chase.

91. Tavern on Key (1400 Key Hwy.,
410-685-6668), a taproom in the basement of a row house at the corner of
Key Highway and Webster Street, is the sole survivor of an era when the
Inner Harbor waterfront was lined with bars. Gentrification picked them
off one at a time, but the tavern held fast. Deta Agresott works behind
the bar serving beer and shots. “It’s not Federal Hill, Hon. This is
South Baltimore.” Her mother Joyce sits nearby and remembers the place
from her childhood in the late ’50s. “It was called Wroten’s back then,”
she says with a smile. “The faces change. The name changes. But the bar
stays the same.”

Intellectual Temples

92. At An die Musik (409 N. Charles
St., 410-385-2638), you can talk to music geeks working at the CD shop
downstairs and hear amazing live music in the upstairs concert space,
which is intimate and comfy. Jazz giants Marilyn Crispell and David
Murray, classical sensation Simone Dinnerstein, and Latin superstar
Eddie Palmieri have all gigged at the venue. Check the calendar and
you’ll also find monthly screenings of jazz films and recitals by
Peabody students.

93. “Worker-owned and collectively managed” Red Emma’s Bookstore Coffeehouse (800
St. Paul St., 410-230-0450) is named after fierce anarchist, feminist,
and intellectual Emma Goldman and lives up to her legacy, hosting an
array of far-left-leaning lectures and talks at its Mt. Vernon location
and additional festivals, summits, and shows at St. John’s Church (2640
St. Paul St.) in Charles Village. With world markets convulsing, it’s an
excellent place to consider the history and future of various economic
and political issues.

94. Lenny’s House of Naturals (1099
W. Fayette St., 410-727-9123) has been described as a “black
empowerment center.” On any given day, you might find the likes of Eddie
Brown or Kurt Schmoke in owner Lenny Clay’s barber chair, talking
politics and solving the world’s problems. An adviser to kings and
mentor to kids, Clay has been facilitating lively debates and working to
improve his Poppleton neighborhood and the surrounding city for more
than four decades.

95. The main branch of the Enoch Pratt Free Library (400
Cathedral St., 410-396-5430) is the mother of all intellectual temples.
Where else could you attend a reading by Pulitzer Prize-winning author
Junot Diaz, pore over historic documents in the Maryland Room, check out
(as in take home with you) a 16-mm film by Samuel Beckett starring
Buster Keaton and a DVD of Slumdog Millionaire, borrow a framed art
print for up to six months, and surf the Internet—all for free!

96. Soaking up the intellectual vibe at Normal’s (425
E. 31st St., 410-243-6888), left, is downright enjoyable. At the
Waverly book and record shop, you might run into John Waters or Madison
Smartt Bell browsing the stacks, hear some of the city’s most
adventurous musicians (at the adjoining Red Room), or join a
conversation on various aspects of geekdom and culture (both high and
low). Ringleader Rupert Wondolowski also publishes the Shattered Wig
Review, a long-running literary journal that’s sold at the shop.

Actual Temples

97. Relive the 19th century ritual of the Church of England at Old St. Paul’s Church (233 N. Charles St., 410-685-3404, osp1692.org),
the oldest congregation in Baltimore: It was established in 1692, has
been on this site since 1731, and is in the only surviving Baltimore
building by renowned architect Richard Upjohn. They’ve got a nationally
recognized boys choir, trumpets, powerful organs, ornate stained glass,
and they really pull out all the stops on major holidays like Christmas
and Easter.

98. Bask in the new beauty of the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, (409 Cathedral St., 410-727-3565, baltimorebasilica.org),
America’s first cathedral. Built from 1806-1821, it recently underwent a
2 1/2-year renovation to return the church to its original design, as
envisioned by America’s first bishop, John Carroll, and planned by
renowned architect Benjamin Henry Latrobe. There are educational tours,
concerts, and lectures.

99. Take the architectural styles of Mayan, Pallava,
Vijaynagara, Kerala, and South Canara, mix ’em up, and you’ve got the
Taj Mahal-meets-over-the-top-sand-castle result of Sri Siva Vishnu Temple (6905 Cipriano Rd., Lanham, 301-552-3335, ssvt.org),
one of the largest Hindu temples in the Western Hemisphere. And to
think: It all started as a “what-if” discussion in the living rooms of a
few local devotees in the 1970s.

100. Admire Baltimore’s Jewish roots at the Lloyd Street Synagogue (11 Lloyd St., 410-732-6400, jhsm.org),
Maryland’s first synagogue. Built in 1845, the Greek Revival building
with its Doric columns offered a permanent home to the Baltimore Hebrew
Congregation, founded in 1830. A few doors down is the nearly-as-old
Hebrew Chizuk Amuno Congregation (27 Lloyd St., 410-732-5454), formed in
1871 by congregants who protested changes to the traditional services.
The Lloyd Street Synagogue is now part of the Jewish Museum of Maryland
and B’nai Israel Congegation now occupies Chizuk Amuno (and still
conducts services there). Both sites are open to the public.

101. In 1987, members of a local Ukrainian Catholic
church aimed to recreate one of the baroque Cossack-style churches from
back home, with stunning results. Congregational women sold traditional
pyrohy (pierogi) from the hall of the church’s previous location, on
Wolfe Street, to finance the five gold-topped towers of St. Michael the Archangel Ukrainian Catholic Church (2401
Eastern Ave., 410-675-7557), left, which looms over Patterson Park, and
a Ukrainian artist was brought in to paint the glorious iconostas—a
traditional screen separating the altar from the congregation—with
images of St. Nicholas, St. Demetri, St. Michael, the Blessed Mother,
and Christ.