Food & Drink

Open & Shut: The Corner Pantry Expansion; The “Keith Lee Effect”; The Charmery Turns 11

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

NEWS

The Corner Pantry Undergoes Expansion: Mt. Washington dwellers—as well as residents of other parts of the city—have made The Corner Pantry a part of their regular routine for more than a decade now. And as of earlier this summer, the breakfast-and-lunch spot is adding even more to love.

An expansion two-and-a-half years in the making is currently underway at the Falls Road fixture, best known for its rotating pastries, breakfast toasts and sandwiches, and heartier plates that reflect chef Neill Howell’s British heritage. Taking over the adjacent storefront formerly home to boutique Mason-Mayes in Lake Falls Village, the project is planned to take place in three phases—the first of which (gutting Mason-Mayes and fireproofing the ceiling) is now complete.

Now in phase two, The Corner Pantry is currently operating in a carryout-only model. There’s limited seating outside, but no available seating inside. When the expansion is complete in November, expect a menu of brunch and lunch fare on offer simultaneously throughout the day. Patrons can also get excited about increased indoor seating and an open-kitchen concept to see the pastry team in action. 

“Look forward to a freshly renovated, beautiful dining room—something Baltimore hasn’t seen before,” teases Rachel Maw, The Corner Pantry’s director of operations. 

TikTok Star Visits Local Restaurants: It’s not hard to prove the influencing power of TikTok these days. Case in point: Keith Lee’s recent visit to Baltimore. The TikTok-famous food critic, who has 16.5 million followers on the social media app, is known for visiting under-the-radar and family-owned businesses, where he invariably creates the “Keith Lee Effect.” Just ask Rooted Rotisserie—the Southwest Baltimore restaurant, located near historic Hollins Market, that is “overwhelmed with gratitude and thrilled by” Lee’s positive review from Aug. 25. (He also left the restaurant a $4,000 tip.)

After his visit—where he sampled the truffle fries and preserved lemon-brushed rotisserie chicken, among other menu items—Rooted Rotisserie had to limit its hours for to-go orders, “to ensure we continue providing top-quality service to all of our guests.” And it seems as if reservations are completely booked for the month of September. (Trust us, we tried!)

According to the Baltimore Business Journal, Lee also visited nearby Oh Honey, On The Bay to try their fish sandwiches, as well Berries By Quicha in Federal Hill. 

Nick’s Fish House Plans for Expansion and Upgrades: The Baltimore Peninsula announced this week that the longtime operators of the area’s popular waterfront restaurant Nick’s Fish House have purchased the property. Jim Weisgerber, Eric Sugrue, and Steve Montgomery have been with Nick’s since Sagamore Ventures tapped them in 2015, and their further involvement means the restaurant will undergo an expansion and upgrades, as Peninsula development grows. “We’re thrilled to be handing the reins over to the folks that have been integral in making Nick’s the iconic, beloved spot it is today,” Sagamore Ventures CFO Greg Resh said in a statement. “As Baltimore Peninsula continues to evolve, it’s an honor to be a part of the continued success of the neighborhood’s very first tenant.” Stay tuned for more.

OPEN

Fogo de Chão Towson: Those red and green-sided coasters are ready for action in Towson. Brazilian steakhouse chain Fogo de Chão—which famously carves meats tableside for diners whose coasters are flipped green, indicating that they’re ready to feast—officially opened its doors at Towson Town Center on Sept. 2, taking over the old P.F. Chang’s space. Joining the longtime outpost in the Inner Harbor, this marks the Baltimore area’s second location and the fourth in Maryland. 

“After being a part of the Baltimore community for nearly 17 years, we look forward to bringing the culinary art of churrasco to Towson,” Fogo de Chão CEO Barry McGowan said in a press release.

The concept’s expansive dining room is centered around an open churrasco grill, offering guests a 360-degree view of gaucho chefs butchering, hand-carving, and grilling quality cuts of protein. The Towson restaurant will also offer the chain’s signature “Market Table” buffet for building hearty salads to accompany the entrees, plus dry-aged meat lockers for in-house aging, an indoor bar, and private dining spaces.

Mug Shots: The former No Way Rosé space in Fed Hill—once filled with cascading flower walls, French bistro furniture, and pops of pink—is now home to a much different concept. Sports bar and restaurant Mug Shots has officially taken over the two-story space at 31 E. Cross St. (Although the concept debuted back in June, with the NFL’s 2024 season debut tonight, the news felt especially relevant this week.) Along with mugs of beer and shots of alcohol, expect literal graffiti mug shots of the Orioles and Ravens mascots inside, along with Baltimore icon Edgar Allan Poe. 

The menu features typical bar fare like loaded fries, smashburgers, chicken wings, and different varieties of egg rolls. Specialty cocktails include a spiked strawberry lemonade and the Shark Attack, made with coconut rum, pineapple juice, blue curacao, and grenadine. Entertainment like drag brunch and karaoke nights are also on offer. Looking for a place to watch the Ravens take on the Chiefs tonight? Reserve a table.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/6: Cystic Fibrosis Foundation’s Passion for Food & Wine
This annual foodie fundraiser gala returns tomorrow to the Four Seasons Baltimore. Each year, the Maryland chapter of the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation throws the big bash with dozens of local chefs and bartenders (think: talents from Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group, Atlas Restaurant Group, La Cuchara, and Gunther & Co., to name a few) to offer guests a cocktail reception, hors d’oeuvres, a five-course dinner, and a silent auction—all in an effort to raise money (to date, the Maryland chapter has raised nearly $4 million from the annual event) for the foundation’s fight against cystic fibrosis. 

9/7: The Charmery’s 11th Anniversary Celebration
Our beloved homegrown ice cream chain is celebrating 11 years in business on Saturday at all six of its locations. The Charmery’s co-owner and master creamer David Alima wanted to channel ‘80s mockumentary This Is Spinal Tap for the 11th anniversary—specifically the famous “these [amps] go to 11” scene. So expect special rock-and-roll-themed flavors inspired by famous rock songs, including the dark chocolate Whole Lotta Fudge, the guava and cream cheese-flavored I Guava Be Sedated, and Wish You Were Beer—a caramel flavor made with Union Craft Brewing’s Divine IPA.

Other perks for Saturday include a free “baby scoop” with every purchase, a “sound check sampler” with five baby scoops, free limited edition color-changing bowls and stickers while supplies last, and a chance to win a “backstage pass” aka a tour of The Charmery’s Ice Cream Factory at Union Collective.

9/13-9/15: Fells Point Oyster Fest
Next weekend, this annual oyster festival—put on by Thames Street cornerstones Kooper’s Tavern and Sláinte—will set up shop on Broadway Square in Fells Point. Expect 10 varieties of oysters shucked, fried, and grilled, plus local brews, cocktails, kids’ activities, and live music all three days.