Food & Drink

Open & Shut: Rye Street Tavern; Benny’s; Atwater’s Canton Crossing

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

COMING SOON

Rye Street Tavern: A grand opening date for the reimagined Rye Street Tavern has been set for Monday, July 15. The massive waterfront restaurant and event venue on Baltimore Peninsula’s Sagamore Spirit Distillery Campus is now owned by Clyde’s Restaurant Group, which operates 12 other properties throughout the DMV. It will be open for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch.

Since closing to the public in May 2021, the tavern has been used solely as a private events venue.  But now, under executive chef John Navarria, the New American restaurant will offer a Southern-influenced menu featuring dishes like bluegrass-spiced salmon, a house fried chicken sandwich, jumbo lump crab cakes, smashburger sliders, steak frites, and a “Sea-Cuterie” board with Oysters Rockefeller, jumbo shrimp, and butter-poached crab. The cocktail menu will, of course, prominently feature Sagamore Spirit Rye.

“As a Baltimore native, [Navarria] is as excited as we are to open our doors to the city’s local community and visitors,” said Clyde’s CFO and head of development Jeff Owens, in a press release.

Spanning two stories and 12,000 square feet, the space has undergone significant renovations—now boasting five dining areas, three bars, small and large private event spaces, and a 75-seat outdoor bar with a glass green roof and panoramic views of the Patapsco. 

Kitsch Cafe: This popular egg sammy spot in Tuscany-Canterbury—located in a humble, 400-square-foot space near the Johns Hopkins University campus—will open a second location inside R. House later this month. Taking over what has historically been the Remington food hall’s breakfast and coffee stall (first Ground & Griddled, then Doppio Pasticceria) Kitsch will be open every day from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., offering a menu similar to its original location.

That includes egg sammies, overnight oats, fresh pastries, and avocado toast for breakfast, as well as chicken salad sandwiches, BLTs, grilled cheeses, mac and cheese, and potato salad for lunch. Coffee, smoothies, lemonades, and teas will always be available. Kitsch also plans to introduce an all-day cafe menu with added happy hour and dinner offerings in the fall.

Owner Jacqueline Mearman first debuted the concept in 2020, and it has since developed a loyal following for its quality—and at-times nontraditional—breakfast and lunch dishes. “We’re excited to spread the love through sandwiches and smiles,” Mearman said in a statement. “This larger-format venue will help us spread our wings and grow our offerings.”

Playa Bowl Harbor East: This national acai bowl chain, with more than 200 locations, will add another to the Baltimore area this fall. Playa Bowl, which already has outposts in Quarry Lake and Ellicott City, will soon open on the 600 block of South Exeter Street in Harbor East. Patrons can build a bowl with predominantly plant-based ingredients, including acai, pitaya, mango, greens, coconut, and banana blends. Toppings include fresh fruit, blueberry flax granola, hemp and chia seeds, and almond or peanut butter.

OPEN

Benny’s: Hearts were broken all over Baltimore when Joe Benny’s—the famous Little Italy focacceria specializing in Sicilian-style pizza and meatballs—closed last summer after more than nine years in business. When owner Joseph Gardella shared an emotional video about the closure, he said “this is not goodbye for good, I hope.” Lucky for us, his instinct was right.

As of late June, the concept is back, now located just a few doors down from its old digs in the former home of Germano’s Piattini at 300 S. High St. Despite the new name (now just Benny’s, a nod to the old spot and Gardella’s new business partner, Ben Sudano of Sudano’s Produce) and an updated menu, you’ll still find focaccia-style pizzas and the famous meatballs. But also expect Southern Italian pastas, salads, appetizers, main entrees, and a bar slinging cocktails. “We’re growing up just a little bit,” Gardella shared on social media. Benny’s is open every day except Mondays. 

CH-CH CHANGES

Doppio Pasticceria: Speaking of Italy, this Sicilian-style bakery inside R. House is moving out on its own. While Kitsch Cafe takes over its stall inside the communal food hall, Doppio Pasticceria has opened a pop-up at 2600 N. Howard St., the former home of JBGB’s in Remington. 

“We will be offering everything previously available at R. House, and the new, larger space will allow us to expand our menu, including soft serve ice cream, pizza, and housemade grocery items,” Doppio wrote on Instagram. Look out for items like cinnamon date rolls, lemon cream maritozzi, apricot danishes, fresh fruit tarts, tiramisu with housemade mascarpone, and hot or iced coffee. 

The old JBGB’s space will be a temporary summer home for the bakery, while owners Luke Ilardo and Megan Cowman continue to put finishing touches on their permanent home—the former Cahoots Brothers space on 29th Street, just across the street from R. House. The staff hopes the debut full-time service there by September. 

The Tilted Row: Change is afoot at Bolton Hill’s Middle Eastern-influenced community spot. After three years, executive chef Amy Hessel has left the restaurant for a new gig in Mt. Vernon (more on that below). Jacques Van Staden—chef and culinary director of The Tilted Row and its sister-spot Cafe Fili—will be brought on as a partner to lead the culinary side of both restaurants in Hessel’s stead. Additionally, The Tilted Row will be closed for the month of August and reopen in early September with an updated look and menu. “We love this city and are excited to continue to grow our culinary concepts here,” The Tilted Row co-owner Ziad Maalouf said in a press release.

Hotel Revival: Hessel can now be found heading up the kitchens at Hotel Revival—overseeing culinary operations for Topside, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant; ‘Dashery, the hotel’s on-site cafe; and B-Side, the property’s speakeasy and karaoke bar. “Culinary excellence is a journey of creativity and storytelling,” Hessel said in a statement. “Baltimore’s vibrant food culture inspires me to craft dishes that not only excite the taste buds, but also share meaningful narratives.”

Thacher & Rye: Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s fine-dining destination in downtown Frederick closed at the end of June, and has since been replaced with The Ordinary Hen, “a celebration of Appalachian cuisine” headed up by chef Bradley Butts. Voltaggio announced the closure on social media: “This decision marks the end of a significant chapter for me,” he wrote. The Top Chef alum will help transition the restaurant in a mentorship role, while simultaneously working on a new project at the forthcoming Visitation Hotel Frederick, which is set to open in the fall. Stay tuned for more details. 

(SOON TO BE) SHUT

Atwater’s Canton Crossing: By the end of this month, Atwater’s will shutter its longstanding location at Canton Crossing. Co-owner Ned Atwater told the Baltimore Business Journal that the closure comes after “lease negotiations broke down.” The local chain’s lease is up this month after 10 years, and Atwater wanted to re-sign for three years instead five, according to the paper. Though Canton locals will miss their neighborhood go-to—known for its homemade seasonal soups, farm-fresh salads, and inventive sandwiches—Atwater’s still has locations in Belvedere Square, Catonsville, and Towson.