Maybe it’s the memories of my New England childhood—summers spent eating lobster rolls and fried clams on The Cape, trips to Pepe’s in New Haven for crisp clam pies, and cups of chowder on outings to Boston—that draw me to all manners of seafood. As Baltimore’s dining critic, I ate out a lot this year. There were Amazonian ants (they’re crunchy in a good way), bowls of short rib risotto, tonkotsu ramen, plates of filet mignon with port wine sauce, and chicken Milanese. But if I had to sum up my favorite dishes this year, I’d say this: It was fish bliss.
Here are some of my favorite seafood dishes of 2024.
Fried oysters at Charleston: These bite-sized beauties—lightly dusted in cornmeal and served with a pluche of Upland cress and a dab of lemon-cayenne mayonnaise—have been a menu staple since the jewel of fine-dining opened its doors in Harbor East nearly three decades back. Pair them with a glass of bubbly if you’re feeling festive, or enjoy them on their own. (Tip: Even though the menu is prix-fixe, if you sit at the bar, you can order them a la carte.)
Fish and chips at The Corner Pantry: This British pub classic comes and goes on the menu, but if it’s listed, it’s not to be missed. Chef Neill Howell pays homage to the Motherland with a large piece of flaky and fried cod served (properly) on a piece of newspaper and paired with house-made fries, mushy peas, tartar sauce, and malt vinegar. It’s the best version of the dish this side of “the pond.”
Miso butter flounder at Dylan’s Oyster Cellar: Oysters get top billing at this Hampden haunt—and you should slurp as many as you possibly can—but don’t ignore the seriously delicious seafood dishes coming out of the newly expanded menu. A miso butter flounder—served headless but whole—delivers notes that are all at once rich, salty, and slightly sweet. It’s the ultimate umami bomb of flavor and the perfect pairing for the mild fish.
Halibut ceviche at Gunther & Co.: Floating in a pool of pineapple habanero sauce, this halibut ceviche offers just the right balance of heat, sweet, and zing. It’s also gorgeously presented with spears of plantain crisps that radiate like the rays of the sun from the ring molded fish. It’s a tropical antidote to the doldrums of winter.
Mussels in vinegar at La Cuchara: From razor clams to white anchovies in olive oil, I love the rotating conservas (Spanish tinned fish) section of this Basque country menu. But on a recent outing to the Woodberry spot, it was the tender and tangy mussels in vinegar, balanced by olive oil and spices, that really wowed. Served with lemon, olives, lemon aioli, and a grilled baguette, it’s the ideal starter.
Clam pie at Little Donna’s: Robbie Tutlewski’s version of the New Haven classic is as close as it comes to actually eating at Pepe’s. The tavern-style clam pie boasts a razor-thin, crispy crust (with almost no rise.) It’s strewn with clams and lemon wedges for squeezing and seasoned liberally with oregano. It’s a Wednesday night special, so plan accordingly.
Linguine with clams at Love, Pomelo: Manila clams still wearing their shells, plus house-made noodles sitting in a bath of garlicky white wine sauce dressed with fresh herbs, is a paragon of the Italian coastal classic. All too often, linguine with white clams include clams from a can or sauce that’s under seasoned. Just to be clear: This is what I want to eat just before the angels get ready to sing.
Steamed crabs at Nick’s Fish House: Asking me to pick my favorite Maryland crab shack is a bit like asking me to pick my favorite child (they’re all my favorites!), but there’s just something about Nick’s—from the kitschy crab-shaped signs to the new souvenir shop—that makes it the quintessential spot to pick our state treasure. The crabs—plucked from local waters whenever possible—arrive piping hot, heavy, and spiced just right.
Caviar and tots at The Ruxton: Buttery Kaluga caviar, plus crunchy diner-style tots is a winning high-low combo. Extra style points for the presentation in a cute, repurposed caviar tin. The whole affair pairs well with a classic gin martini (just saying).
Cloud shrimp at Toki Underground: Ramen is the star of the show at this Harwood fave, but you should also consider at least one plate of the aptly named cloud shrimp. Add any seafood to a deep fryer and you’re bound to get something good, but the cloud shrimp appetizer—served with a side of kicky Kewpie kimchi mayo—is tremendous. The shrimp is fried in potato starch which makes them extra crispy (and gluten-free). You can add them to any order of ramen, but be sure to eat them quickly before they soak up the broth.
Crab Dip at Woodberry Tavern: The beloved James Beard Award-winning Woodberry Kitchen is long gone, but its signature Taylors Island crab pot—studded with huge hunks of crab from Dorchester County and spiked with Snake Oil—lives on at the refreshed concept. The house-made spelt crackers that accompany the dish add heft and crunch.
