A Towson Throwback

At a time when so many of Towson’s downtown buildings have been
razed and replaced by hulking structures, it’s nice to discover a modest
1920s cottage-turned-restaurant. And you have to love the name, Bread
and Circuses Bistro and Bar—a term from Roman times that means wooing
the populace with food and entertainment. On weekends, Bread and
Circuses does indeed offer live music, but its draw is an eclectic menu
of sandwiches, appetizers, and entrees that is available throughout the
week with brunch on Sundays. In a past life, the restaurant was a coffee
shop called French Press until it started serving dinner three years
ago, complete with beer, wine, and liquor.

The restaurant was quietly enjoyed by locals, but word has spread.
The small dining rooms—a parlor filled with artsy knickknacks and a
lower level with artwork for sale—fill quickly.

One evening, we started with a garlicky tomato bruschetta with goat
cheese and a silky Nantucket bisque with corn and crab. Both were
excellent starters.

The kitchen was kind enough to split the shrimp and scallop Provençal
on two plates for us. There was more than enough to share, especially
with the accompanying rice. Our chicken Mykonos was fragrant with
spinach, feta, tomatoes, shallots, and a lemon-basil sauce.

A downside was an indifferent server, though that did not appear to
be the norm. Our waiter spilled a good portion of wine as he aimed for
our wine glass. He mopped it up a bit, leaving behind a stain and
dribbles on the glass. Then, he walked away without even acknowledging
the incident.

The cost of dessert ($7.95) also gave us pause until we realized most
of the offerings were luscious creations from Pâtisserie Poupon, the
French bakery with locations in Baltimore and D.C.

On a lunch visit, the salmon Rushdie caught our eye. It’s a
double-decker sandwich with grilled salmon, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and
mayo—a delicious mouthful.

As new development spreads throughout the bustling Baltimore County
seat, Bread and Circuses’s quaint bistro setting stands out for its
individuality and down-to-earth food.

›› Bread and Circuses Bistro and Bar, 401 Delaware
Ave., Towson, 410-337-5282. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Fri., 4 p.m.-2
a.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday brunch. Appetizers: $6-12; sandwiches:
$6-13; entrees, $12-28; desserts: $7.95.