Food & Drink
A quest for all things crab.
Edited by Jane Marion
By Suzanne Loudermilk, Amy Scattergood, Mike Unger, and Lydia Woolever
Photography by Justin Tsucalas
Illustrations by Ryan Snook
WHEN CRAB SEASON STRIKES, the hankering hits so hard, it’s practically primal: We have to eat crab. And lots of it. As our state crustaceans emerge fat and full from their winter’s nap at the bottom of the Bay, consuming crab becomes a kind of regional religion.
Here in Maryland, we’ll take them any way we can get ’em—and the options are limitless. Crabmeat is strewn across pizzas and nachos, crammed into egg rolls and pot stickers, folded into dips or soups, shaped into luscious cakes or fried into fritters, sprinkled on soft pretzels or Caesar salads, or stuffed into shrimp. And of course, we’re always happy to eat them straight out of the steamer, encrusted in J.O. spice or Old Bay.
No matter what, there’s no such thing as too much crab. And for those of us lucky enough to live in the Old Line State, we don’t have to look beyond our Bay—beginning in late April, the first soft-shells start to appear and go straight through fall, though summer is high season for cracking. (Thanks to dwindling crab populations, sometimes restaurants source their blues from Texas, North Carolina, or Louisiana.)
So, how best to tackle the task? This year, for the first time ever, we embarked on something we’re calling a crab crawl. (Why should barflies have all the fun?)
Below, we cover six neighborhoods in and around Baltimore that are packed with crab houses, seafood markets, and other interesting places to explore. And while the idea of eating a progressive meal that starts at one crab house and leads to another might seem novel (and a bit hedonistic), based on our extremely scientific research, it’s both filling and fun.
The beauty of these crawls is that you can do each one from start to finish—or call it a day after several stops and then get back to it on a second round. Know before you go that some crawls are walkable, while others require a short drive. Take a friend or family member—or invite every person you’ve ever known. We’ll admit, some of these itineraries are a bit ambitious. But don’t be daunted. Any day (or night) that begins—and ends—with crabs is bound to be a good one.
Middle River/ Essex
BALTIMORE COUNTY
This stretch of southeast Baltimore County is dense with old-school crab joints (think wood paneling, cheap beer) and seafood markets, all within a mere mallet’s swing of several tributaries that feed directly into the Chesapeake Bay, making it the ultimate location for Bay-to-table dining. Distances between stops aren’t far, but you’ll need to get behind the wheel between spots to complete this crawl.
Scenes from Crazy Tuna Bar & Grille.
➊ By the Docks
3321 Eastern Blvd., Middle River
Start your crawl at this classic Middle River surf-and-turf spot for a lunch that leans toward fine dining, with white tablecloths and bottles of wine mounted on the wall. There are myriad salads, sandwiches, and larger entrees to choose from, but pacing yourself is paramount if you’re going to complete this crab crawl. Order the seafood salad, rife with sea scallops, plump shrimp, and a sprinkling of crabmeat. It’s a star—and should be shared. Next on the agenda: digesting.
➋ The Glenn L. Martin Aviation Museum
701 Wilson Pt. Rd., Middle River
This small-but-mighty museum with knowledgeable guides shares the story of Maryland’s aviation history. The museum’s namesake—a pioneering aviator and industrialist—and his manufacturing company played an integral role in WWII, employing thousands who traveled for work to this area. The real highlight is visiting the 15 or so aircraft carriers on display from the Korean and Vietnam wars, including a Vietnam-era F4C fighter and a Huey gunship used for search and rescue in Vietnam. You’ll need about 90 minutes if you want to see everything—and if you get lucky, you might catch the National Guardsman landing in formation along the private jetway. Odds are, even those who’ve lived in Maryland for years have never paid a visit to this hidden treasure.
➌ Marshy Point County Park
7130 Marshy Point Rd., Essex
This county greenspace offers several one-to-two-mile, easy hiking trails that are well-marked with sweeping views of Dundee and Saltpeter creeks. (If you’re feeling ambitious, you can rent a canoe or kayak.) There’s also a nature center with an ongoing roster of educational events and a display with information about native species.
➍ Crazy Tuna Bar & Grille
203 Nanticoke Rd., Middle River
The vibe is island-meets-estuary at this bustling restaurant that boasts spectacular water views and a buzzy tiki bar with boozy drinks and a beachy setting. Grab a stool or snag a turquoise picnic table. Wherever you perch, sip on a Mai Tai or grapefruit crush and peoplewatch as the yachts dock on Hopkins Creek.
➎ Schultz’s Crab House
1732 Old Eastern Ave., Essex
For the total Bawlmer experience, there’s no better place to pick crabs than this 54-year-old, James Beard Award-winning joint, where the servers call you “hon,” the air reeks of crab spice, and iconic A. Aubrey Bodine photographs line the wood-paneled walls. Schultz’s doesn’t take reservations, but it’s easy enough to snag a seat, whether you want to sit at their down-home bar or grab a table in the dining room, directly under the stuffed marlin. The only decision you’ll need to make is how many hardshells—which arrive stacked high on a red plastic tray—you can handle. Start with spicy steamed shrimp tossed with onions, then move on to some steamed-to-order crabs covered with proprietary spice. Of course, the crustaceans come with all the accoutrements, including a mallet, a roll of paper towels, and a galvanized bucket for shell detritus. Take your time to unwind and play a game of pool or hope that Lady Luck is on your side by betting on Keno.
➏ Miss Twist Ice Cream
122 Back River Neck Rd., Essex
No Maryland meal would be complete without some soft serve or a scoop of cold comfort to cleanse your palate and help you digest dinner. We recommend a creamsicle twist or banana split topped with caramel and coconut. And if you’re too full to move a muscle after all that crawling, place your order at the drive-through window.
Walking the beach, decor, and a boozy drink at Crazy Tuna.
The retro truck, waffle cone, and double twist at Miss Twist.
Crab Hack
Nearby neighbor Hard Yacht Café in Dundalk features nightly live music if you have any steam left.
Federal Hill/ Locust Point
BALTIMORE CITY
There are few parts of the city that offer South Baltimore’s concentration of restaurants and bars in which to feast on crabby dishes. It took us about six hours on foot to complete this crawl, which covers about three-and-a-half miles. All that walking made us feel better about the (oh so worth it) crustaceans we consumed along the way.
Hometown mural and interior touches at
L.P. Steamers.
➊ Little Havana
1325 Key Hwy., Federal Hill
It would seem like seafood sacrilege to begin a crab crawl at a landlocked restaurant, so we kicked off our strut through South Baltimore at one of the neighborhood’s oldest—and most revered—establishments. Housed in a former warehouse for more than 25 years, Little Havana has been drawing customers to its killer Cuban food, tropical cocktails, and patio with stunning harbor views. We started with a delightful mojito, made with fresh mint and sugar, and a bowl of crab dip. Served with warm pieces of pita bread in a fried tortilla-shell bowl, the appetizer was creamy and topped with cheese, but still tasted like crab—a rarity at many places that only do lip service to the seafood. When we were done, not even a tiny piece of that edible bowl remained on the plate.
➋ Baltimore Museum of Industry
1415 Key Hwy., Federal Hill
We popped next door to this charming museum, whose home is a circa-1865 oyster canning warehouse. Today, it boasts several seafood-related exhibits, including the original Old Bay spice grinder brought to Baltimore by Gustav Brunn, a spicemaker who fled Nazi Germany in 1939. Here, he eventually created the iconic seasoning that we’re still fanatical about sprinkling on our steamed crabs (and everything else).
➌ The Local Oyster
838 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point
If that dose of culture makes you hungry again, mosey four blocks or so to a newcomer on this revamped section of Locust Point. The sister spot to their Mount Vernon Marketplace flagship is bright and airy, with a friendly staff and welcoming aura. There’s a section of crab signatures on the menu that includes a crab cake, crab dip, and a crab pretzel, but for this stop we endorse the crab mac and cheese, which is rich, gooey, and riddled with visible chunks of lump crab.
➍ Fort McHenry
2400 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point
Walk off that full feeling by strolling down Fort Avenue to the fort. It’s just over a mile, so if you need a pit stop, we suggest grabbing a Green Machine IPA at Diamondback Brewing Company (1215 E. Fort Ave., No. 008). Even if you don’t go into the visitor’s center or the fort itself (which famously inspired our “Star-Spangled Banner”), the peninsula is a gorgeous place to jog, walk your dog, read, or just take in the picturesque panorama of the Patapsco River.
➎ Barracudas
1230 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point
We did a quick loop on the fort’s walking path before heading back up Fort Avenue to this typical neighborhood bar. There are several crab items on the menu, including crab soup, surf-and-turf nachos, and a blackened crab po’ boy, but the best of the bunch is the seafood fra diavolo pizza. Topped with generous portions of shrimp, crab, spinach, and mozzarella, its crust is crispy, and its sauce lives up to its name. We’ve rarely had a spicier pie.
➏ L.P. Steamers
1100 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point
Finally, it’s time for the “pick” de resistance. In a corner rowhouse sits one of the most popular crab houses in the city. Head’s up—the place can get packed on weekends, but the wait is worth it, whether you eat inside, at one of the tables on the sidewalk, or upstairs on the rooftop deck. The crabs here are meaty, lightly seasoned, and steamed to perfection. It’s the perfect place to end your crawl, but be advised: As you toss the last of your shells into our bucket, your fingers will sting, your feet will ache, and your belly will be full. In Baltimore, this is what happiness feels like.
The Old Bay
spice grinder at the Baltimore
Museum of Industry.
Feasting at L.P. Steamers.
The fra diavolo
pizza at Barracudas.
Crab feasting and walking toward
L.P. Steamers.
Crab Hack
In between stops, put on your sea legs and ride the Harbor Connector along the Patapsco. Get off on one of four piers or simply enjoy the view from the water. Best of all, during the week, it’s free.
Timonium/ Parkville/ Towson
BALTIMORE COUNTY
These suburban neighborhoods may be miles from the Bay, but they are teeming with the briny tastes of seafood. Enjoy taking a new dining approach in this south-central corner of the county. Driving from start to finish will be necessary.
The exterior of Ocean Pride; steamed Gulf shrimp; steamed crabs.
➊ Ocean Pride
1534 York Rd., Lutherville
This circa-1971 fixture lures in locals and out-of-towners with its weighty crabs. Kick off your crawl with a half-pound (or more) of jumbo Gulf shrimp, steamed traditionally with chunks of soft onion and spices. If the anticipation is too great, dig into a half-dozen larges, recently a mix from Maryland and Louisiana, sprinkled generously with J.O. spice and cooked to order. Eat your fill—pace, don’t race—and relax. You’re going to take a short, digestive drive to your next destination.
➋ Pappas Restaurant & Sports Bar
1725 Taylor Ave., Parkville
You can go fancy at Pappas and sit at one of the cloth-covered tables in the main dining room, or you can go casual and grab a stool at the bar, like we did, surrounded by multiple TVs showing various sports games. It’s time to indulge your inner Poseidon with a plate of two-ounce mini crab cakes for five exquisite bites. The crispy crab egg rolls are a nice prep, too, with great crabby flavor. Make a note to come back for the restaurant’s famous crab cake (an Oprah favorite) and a range of other dishes, from an excellent cream of crab soup to a retro crab imperial.
➌ The Crackpot
8102 Loch Raven Blvd., Towson
This half-century-old stalwart has undergone new ownership and remodeling in recent years but still provides a standout spot for steamed crabs and other iterations, from crab cakes to beer-battered crab fluff. Indulge in Southern seafood beignets, which are delightful, deep-fried balls of shrimp and lump crab. Depending on your hunger level, consider some cooked-to-order hard-shells, which will likely hail from Louisiana. Enjoy your fill before heading to downtown Towson to stretch your legs.
➎ Barley’s Backyard Uptown
408 York Rd., Towson
Before you hike up several flights of stairs (there is also an elevator) to reach Barley’s rooftop deck, stroll around Towson to work up an appetite. There are some surprises to be found: colorful planters and murals painted by local artists and an art gallery housed in Triple Crown Tattoo & Piercing’s second-floor ink shop. Then by the time you’re seated in Barley’s outdoor space, you’ll be ready for an orange crush with fresh-squeezed juice or an Eastern Shore mule with Old Bay vodka. If you’ve saved room, they’re suitable companions to noshing on a bowl of creamy crab dip, surrounded by toasted baguette slices and celery sticks—just saying. Take in the airy view. Next up: duckpin bowling.
➏ Stoneleigh Lanes
6703 York Rd., Towson
If it’s been a while since you rolled a ball down a wooden lane, the staff is happy to review the scoring process and basic rules of the game. For $16, bowlers ages 11 and older get an hour and a pair of bowling shoes. Forget high tech—you count the fallen pins yourself and use pencil and paper to tally your points. Nostalgia scores big here. After all that hard work, you deserve something sweet, and that’s just steps away.
➐ The Charmery
6807 York Rd., Towson
After showing off your bowling prowess, walk a short block to this locally owned ice cream shop, whose first store sits in Hampden. While some flavors change, you can count on finding “always” choices like Maryland Mud, Tell Tale Chocolate, and Old Bay Caramel—all appropriate endings for a day packed with seafood. Sit inside the cheerful space or grab an outdoor table for people-watching while enjoying your wellearned treat. Note to self: Skip breakfast tomorrow.
a bread bowl of creamy
crab dip at Barley’s
Backyard Uptown; Spicing the crabs at Ocean Pride.
Cocktails at Barley’s
Backyard Uptown.
Scooping up some Old Bay Caramel ice cream at The Charmery.
Crab Hack
Conrad’s Crabs & Seafood Market in Parkville offers a carryout option in case of next-day crab withdrawal. They’re open most nights until 8:30 p.m.
Fells Point/ Canton/ Highlandtown
BALTIMORE CITY, EAST
Just east of the main Fells Point drag, the waterfront is jammed with neighborhood restaurants, bakeries, and bars, many of which feature our regional specialty in one form or another. It’s also great for walking, so for the most part, this crawl can be done on foot, with stops to feed the ducks at Patterson Park or admire views of the Inner Harbor in between crab sandwiches, crab pizza, a small mountain of steamed crabs—and plenty of Maryland crushes.
The exterior, interior artwork, and soft-shell crab
soup at Mama’s.
➊ Café Dear Leon
2929 O’Donnell St., Canton
Start your crawl where most things should begin: with a cup of excellent coffee. This Canton bakery opens early (6 a.m.), makes splendid cortados, and bakes in stages, to give you the stamina you’ll need for a day of crawling. They make plenty of pastries at dawn, but you want to get here at 11 a.m. or shortly after, as that’s when they start selling their famous crab tamago sandos. These are Japanese-style sandwiches, made with pan de mie, crabmeat, and Kewpie mayonnaise-laden egg salad, all formed around a dashi softboiled egg.
➋ Mama’s on the Half Shell
2901 O’Donnell St., Canton
Just a few hundred feet down the block from Café Dear Leon is this 20-year-old tavern, a cozy old-school spot with plenty of patio seating. Sit down, order a crush from the extensive cocktail menu, and indulge in a triple-threat dish in the form of decadent cream of crab soup loaded with lump crab and topped with an Instagrammable fried soft-shell. After maybe another crush, wander south to the Canton Waterfront Park and enjoy the scenic vantage point while you take the promenade to the next stop.
➌ Captain James Seafood Palace
2127 Boston St., Canton
There’s no missing this place: The massive restaurant is built to look like a merchant ship somehow docked along Boston Street—deck and portholes and all. Take a seat inside and order the crab spanakopita—the owners are Greek, hence the dish (and the Greek flag flying next to Maryland’s above their outdoor crab deck across the street). If you’ve got time, cross over and have another beer—or crush—there, along the waterfront.
➍ Matthew’s Pizzeria
3131 Eastern Ave., Highlandtown
No crab crawl would truly be complete without a slice or two (or three) of the crab pie at Matthew’s—the city’s oldest pizzeria, open since 1943. The pizza is topped with a heap of lump crab, covered with mozzarella, and browned to perfection. You might want to take a break with a jaunt through Patterson Park or bring a blanket and a book (may we suggest William Warner’s Beautiful Swimmers) and hang out for a bit. By this point, you’ll need to find your car to get to the next stop, especially since you’ll be pretty tired and full.
➎ Jimmy’s Famous Seafood
6526 Holabird Ave., Broening Manor
Your last stop is at Jimmy’s, a colossal seafood restaurant on the edge of Dundalk, which has been serving up crabs and more since 1974. Once a bingo hall, the place now has dining rooms, banquet halls, bars, and outdoor seating. Make yourself at home and order a dozen or so crabs, which will eventually tumble down onto your paper-covered table, a sprawl of crab seasoning-covered crustaceans. The crab toast here is very good, as are the crab cakes, though you may just want to focus on the crab feast, the day’s proper finale. Just do not leave without getting a slice of Smith Island cake, the many-layered yellow cake with chocolate icing deemed the official dessert of Maryland.
➏ Spellcraft Tattoo
2350 Boston St., Canton
After all the food, and drink, why not get a blue crab tattoo, courtesy of the artists at Spellcraft. Ask for inkman Dave Ira. (Obviously, this is optional.)
Raw oysters and a slice
of Smith Island cake
at Jimmy’s.
The exterior of Jimmy's Famous Seafood; crabs come out of the steamer and a crab feast
at Jimmy’s.
Crab tattoo
from Spellcraft; an array
of oyster plates at Mama’s.
Crab Hack
Commune with nature and feed the ducks leftover crackers or bread bits at Patterson Park.
Annapolis
ANNE ARUNDEL COUNTY
It’s only fitting that Maryland’s state capital has a plethora of places for picking crabs. From its quaint city dock to its sailor-strewn Eastport neighborhood to its Severn River suburbs, it’s easy to make a day of it in Annapolis, with most seafood-toting locations within literal crawling distance.
The crab Benedict
at Chick & Ruth’s.
The Bloody
Mary with crab spice at Davis’ Pub; Beachwear for sale at The Pink Crab.
➊ Davis’ Pub
400 Chester Ave., Annapolis
This neighborhood bar is a locals’ go-to for watching Navy football and University of Maryland lacrosse games, with its solid beer list, comforting pub fare, and cozy interior, where every table comes with its own can of Old Bay. Open daily at 11 a.m., its outdoor seating is the perfect perch for a Bloody Mary, made with a local mix and topped with that spicy seasoning. (We wouldn’t judge you for ordering a bowl of their homemade crab soup for breakfast, but save room for Stop 2.)
➋ Chick & Ruth’s
165 Main St., Annapolis
Located in the middle of Main Street, this circa-1965 deli is a Maryland institution, with super-sized sandwiches named after local politicians and crab cakes so famous they’re now shipped across the country. Start the day with either a crab omelet, crab Benedict, or the “Hogan’s Bipartisan” (aka a combo of Maryland and cream of crab soups), or even go for a crab dip-covered baked potato. You’ll work some of it off walking to your next location.
➌ U.S. Naval Academy
290 Buchanan Rd., Annapolis
The nation’s best sailors get their training in Annapolis, where midshipmen often wander about Main Street in their all-white uniforms. Tour the school’s historic grounds, visit the on-site museum, and spend some time in the chapel, where you’ll find the crypt of John Paul Jones, aka father of the U.S. Navy, and original Tiffany stained glass windows.
➍ Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn
458 Forest Beach Rd., Annapolis
It’s time to eat again, and a short drive across the gorgeous Naval Academy Bridge will bring you to this beloved crab house, tucked away in a residential neighborhood near the Severn River. Watch the watermen pull in as you sit on the outdoor deck, flag your server for a pitcher of beer, and then order like a local—that means a pile of number-two crabs, not the extra-larges. They also fry up some of the best soft-shell crabs around, with delicious hush puppies and coleslaw to boot. Grab a souvenir matchbook on your way out the door.
➎ Main Street, Annapolis
Main Street
Amble through the brick and cobblestone streets of this historic city—once chosen as the U.S. capital before D.C. Each alleyway offers windows into historic homes, plus a coterie of cute shops, from McBride Gallery on Main Street to Ka- Chunk! Records and Old Fox Books on Maryland Avenue and Welcome Home Annapolis on State Circle (crab knives included).
➏ Preserve
164 Main St., Annapolis
After an afternoon of shopping and a siesta, sit along the waterfront, and make your way to this farm-to-table restaurant for regionally sourced and inspired fare. The rotating menu features a few sweet touches of Maryland crab throughout the season, like the fancy lump-flecked agnolotti pasta with local sweet corn that we had last summer. Though you can’t go wrong with anything Bay-inspired here (we love the blue catfish and chips).
Historic
Main Street in Annapolis.
The Naval Academy and Ego Alley in Annapolis.
Docking at the Annapolis Harbor.
crab swag abounds on Main Street in Annapolis; Getting in steps downtown.
Crab Hack
Help yourself digest by boogying the night away to live music at Stan & Joe’s Saloon on West Street.
Grasonville/ Easton/ St. Michaels
EASTERN SHORE
They call the Eastern Shore “Chesapeake Country” for a reason—whichever way you look, there’s a river, a shoreline, and, often enough, a hand-written sign pointing you to “CRABS.” Trust us and follow it, or, if you’re sticking to a quick shot from the Bay Bridge, make your way toward Talbot County for a mecca of meat and (crab) mustard. You can walk between Stops 3-6.
Crab Claw pitcher and the Maritime Museum.
➊ Harris Crab House
433 Kent Narrow Way N., Grasonville
As soon as you cross over the Bay, pull off to this true-blue, family-run crab house, open daily at 11 a.m. and with an outdoor deck perfect for watching workboats haul in their seafood harvests. There’s a jumbo menu, but we always make a beeline for the soft-shell sandwich, which we maintain is a perfectly acceptable breakfast, especially with an orange crush. You can also throw in a few market-priced hardshells for good measure, as you’ve got a 30-minute drive to your next location.
➋ Easton Antiques
25 N. Harrison St., Easton
Before you leave home, pack a cooler, as this best-kept-secret antique store located in the heart of historic Easton sells what might be the best crab soup in the Old Line State. Order a few frozen pints of Shore Boys from the front counter, stash them on ice in your car, then enjoy them as a future meal. You can thank us later.
➌ The Crab Claw
304 Burns St., St. Michaels
If there is one quintessential crab house on this estuary, it might be 15 minutes down the road, at this waterfront shack along the Miles River in the salty-dog enclave of St. Michaels. The paper placemats give all tourists the 4-1-1 on how to dissect their crustaceans, which are steamed on-site and often brought in by local watermen. Start with the clam strips and a house ale, then head for the hard-shells, which come doused in a spicy dredge of seasoning. Watch the ducks swim along the docks and experience our state nickname, the Land of Pleasant Living, firsthand.
➍ Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
213 N. Talbot St., St. Michaels
Just next-door to lunch, this classic museum is a treasure trove of Chesapeake history, with a historic lighthouse, scenic cruises, and a special exhibit up through winter about climate change along this estuary. Best of all, though, there’s an impressive working shipyard, where artisans build and maintain a fleet of wooden boats.
➎ Lyon Rum
605 S. Talbot St., Unit 6, St. Michaels
No visit to a sailor’s town would be complete without a strong swig of rum. Windon Distilling Company—a woman-owned, St. Michaels-based rum maker—crafts small-batch spirits often found in beloved cocktail bars in Baltimore. Stumble down to the bottle shop to taste their various offerings and snag a few to take home with you. The coconut liqueur, made using real fruit, is a fan favorite.
➏ Ruse
209 N. Talbot St., St. Michaels
At the west end of the main drag, this hip newcomer housed in The Wildset Hotel creates some of the chicest cuisine on the shore. It’s popular, so make your dinner reservation in advance, or roll the dice for a seat at the buzzy bar. The evolving menu pulls from the seasons, like a crab and ramp rangoon appetizer in springtime. You can also order local oysters and a side of swanky soft serve (think matcha) for dessert. And if you’ve had one too many craft cocktails, book a room and stay the night.