In Good Taste

Open & Shut: The Charmery; Coelum; Ono Poke

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

COMING SOON

The Charmery: Baltimore’s own quirky ice cream shop has already made its mark on the Northern Baltimore neighborhoods—serving scoops at its Hampden flagship, Towson storefront, and massive Medfield production factory inside Union Collective. And now, it’s spreading the love south. The Baltimore Business Journal broke the news this week that husband-and-wife owners David and Laura Alima plan to open a fourth location at 46 E. Cross Street in Federal Hill in the coming months. “The factory only works if it has something to feed,” David said of The Charmery’s expansion, in our profile of the couple last year. Unlike the other shops, the small storefront across from Cross Street Market will feature a walk-up window concept. Signature flavors will include locally inspired favorites like Old Bay Caramel, Maryland Mud, Lemon Stick, and Tell Tale Chocolate.

OPEN

Coelum Cafe, Bar, and Market: This new dining destination in Canton—whose name translates to “sky” or “heaven” in Latin—is fittingly decorated with feather details and lots of lush greenery. Industry veterans Corey Laub and Ryan Thacker opened the restaurant earlier this week in the former home of Gitan Bistro Cru in Canton. The menu pairs batched cocktails and natural wines with seasonal dishes like summer squash risotto, fried green tomatoes, and duck confit. Coelum (pronounced coy-loom) will also offer a retail market stocked with local products like Open Seas Coffee and cupcakes from Slam Bakes.

Ono Poke: Nothing beats a refreshing poke bowl during the dog days of summer. Ono Poke officially opened inside the newly renovated Cross Street Market in Federal Hill last week, offering the authentic Hawaiian delicacy of raw fish topped with sweet and spicy sauces and vegetables. If you still haven’t gotten a chance to check out the upgrades at the market, stop in to try one of Ono’s signature bowls including the “Smooth N Spicy” (ahi tuna, creamy spicy aioli, avocado, cucumber, jalapeno, habanero masago) or the “Lomi Lomi” with salmon and citrus shoyu vinaigrette. Other vendors on deck to open in July include Annoula’s Kitchen, Sobeachy Haitian Cuisine, and a stall slinging Royal Farms chicken.

NEWS

The Bluebird Cocktail Room Turns Two: It’s been two years since Hampden’s literary-themed cocktail haven officially joined the scene. On Sunday, July 7, the bar is celebrating its big birthday accordingly with raffles, discounted drinks, and new menu items. Starting at 12 p.m., Bluebird’s downstairs pub will be offering happy hour specials and half-off its signature Old Fashioneds during brunch. Make your way upstairs when the Cocktail Room opens at 5 p.m. to sample summer sips (new drinks include the watermelon molasses-infused “Waxen Fruit Impends” and vodka-based “Goddess Strikes #2”) and enter into a raffle to win a private cocktail class. Throughout the day, the team will be donating $1 from every cocktail purchased to the nearby Hampden Family Center.

Citron Wins Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator: The wine program at this Pikesville fine-dining den got some national recognition this week when it was listed among the winners of Wine Spectator’s annual Restaurant Awards. Citron was given the Award of Excellence for its well-curated wine list, which features more than 1,700 regional bottles. The restaurant joins the ranks of other previous Baltimore winners including Magdalena, Tagliata, and The Prime Rib.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 7/6: South American Showdown at Bar Vasquez
Speaking of wine, Bar Vasquez in Harbor East is hosting a head-to-head showdown menu as a way to introduce diners to some of South America’s most impressive varieties. The $55 four-course menu features six wine pairings (two for each savory course) ranging from a Mendoza malbec to a classic cabernet franc. Dishes to look out for will include crispy zucchini with caper herb aioli, lobster and corn cakes, wood-grilled Hudson Valley duck breast, and a traditional tres leches cake.

7/6: Independence Weekend Block Party at Fat Tiger
The Fourth of July fireworks will likely all have fizzled out by this weekend, but the bar team behind Fat Tiger and El Tigre at Broadway Market is keeping the party going with this block party from 1-10 p.m. on Saturday. Head to the market’s patio to enjoy an all-American menu of pulled pork, chorizo, beer-can chicken, baked beans, mac and cheese, and jalapeño cornbread paired with icy cocktails made with Baltimore Spirits’ Company gin and amaro.

7/6: Fried Chicken and Champagne at Chez Hugo
It might seem odd, but fried chicken and champagne remains one of the most underrated culinary combinations. For the second year in a row, Chez Hugo is celebrating National Fried Chicken Day by frying up breasts, thighs, drumsticks, and wings and drizzling them in espelette honey. A la carte sides will include buttermilk biscuits, charred kale, barbecue baked beans, and caviar. Specifically for the occasion, bar manager Maximo Guerra has hand-selected four champagne options by the glass, as well as many specialty bubbles by the bottle.