Review: Copper Shark Swims Into Locust Point

At Copper Shark, the new occupant of the former Wine Market Bistro space in the Foundry on Fort Avenue, story matters. Starting with the copper pot on display by the host stand near the main entrance, the restaurant goes to great lengths to impart its narrative to those walking through its doors.

Presumably the pot is similar to one that might have belonged to the (unnamed) Baltimore family who, according to the restaurant’s website, “made a living producing copper pots to make candy. Early on, they shrewdly realized their metalsmith studio was perfect for bootlegging whiskey.” As the tale goes, one member married a gangster who vowed to keep the city’s drinks flowing during Prohibition.

The restaurant is the latest offering from Mid-Atlantic Eateries, which has several locations of the Eggspectation franchise, including one in Ellicott City. If its attempt to push the copper concept seems a bit contrived, well, during our two visits in early fall its patrons didn’t seem to care. They—like us—were content sipping well-crafted cocktails, enjoying thoughtfully curated charcuterie plates, and partaking in much of executive chef Matthew Audette’s well-executed menu.

We pulled into the parking lot for our inaugural visit three months after the restaurant’s June opening. After being greeted warmly by the host, we were escorted past the bar and a glass case filled with hunks of marbled meats and cheeses to the crowded and lively dining room. From the moment we sat down, our server was cheerful, attentive, and informative.

We started with an American Treasure, the restaurant’s signature Old-Fashioned. Its bourbon, simple syrup, and bitters are standards; what makes it unique is the theatrical manner in which it’s presented. Tableside, our server opened a small treasure chest to reveal the drink amid a cloud of smoke. It was a fun little show, although the smoke barely impacted the cocktail’s taste. Still, it was a solid Old-Fashioned—nothing more, nothing less.

Appetizers tend toward the sophisticated. Seared foie gras, fried burrata, charred octopus, and sugar pumpkin velouté are among the alluring offerings. We opted for the stupendous braised duck Bolognaise. Topped with a dollop of boursin cheese, the thin black pepper tagliatelle blended with the duck to create a dynamic, rich flavor. The al dente texture of the noodles was flawless, and the generous portion could make for a small entree. We’ll be ordering it again.

Still, we made room for the main course. The nine entrees include pan-seared scallops, grilled swordfish, and a duo of Muscovy duck, all of which sounded promising. On this night, we opted for the herb-crusted halibut and an eight-ounce flat iron steak. Both were excellent. The lemon-dill nana sauce gave the fish a pleasing acidity, and the accompanying sauteed asparagus and baby carrots were a nice complement. The steak, plated pre-sliced, was perfectly hot but tender and red in the middle.

On our way out that night, the bar was packed with people. The more casual menu, lower price point, and covivial vibe at the bar intrigued us, so when we returned a few weeks later we joined the throngs. To kick off the night, we started with a Porch Pounder, which certainly does pack a punch. Bourbon, peach, dry orange Curaçao, honey, lemon, and ginger beer combine to make a refreshing, but strong, concoction.

After a plate of middling crunchy cheesy arancini balls (which were not particularly crunchy or cheesy), we ordered a charcuterie board, which was nicely composed and fun to eat. In addition to the fat pieces of black pepper and maple duck ham, ’nduja spreadable salami, and Italian cow’s milk cheese, jam, olives, and pickled cauliflower rounded out the plate.

Duck confit tacos and an Italian sub highlight the bar menu (and are available on the pared-down lunch menu, as well), but the burger—an eight-ounce patty topped with sharp cheddar, crispy onions, and horseradish aioli—ultimately called out to us. It turned out to a be a quality, respectable version—it was juicy but not too massive or messy to handle. We also split the pan-roasted organic chicken. Excellent seasoning on the skin and a sweet tomato vinaigrette elevated the dish from humdrum to exciting.

Six months into its life, much of Copper Shark’s story remains to be written. We’re excited to see what comes next.

COPPER SHARK: 921 E. Fort Ave., 410-202-2268. HOURS: Tue.-Fri., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat., 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun., 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $11-18; entrees: $22-65; bar menu: $10-18. AMBIANCE: A speakeasy in plain sight.