Raising the Bar

There’s something happening in the Lutherville-Timonium corridor lately. An area once dotted with chains, particularly along York and Padonia roads, has become home to spinoffs of city stalwarts. In other words, trend alert: Kooper’s, Ryleigh’s Oyster, and now Mother’s Grille, have all booked it to the ’burbs.

Mother’s North Grille (2450 Broad Ave., Timonium, 443-991-5256), which opened in a former Applebee’s space in March, is counting on customers who, says co-owner Dave Rather, frequented the original Federal Hill bar in their 20s and are now (gulp) all grown up—with kids in tow—and eager to flock to a familiar spot in the suburbs.

Though there’s no Purple Patio or Big Buck Hunter video console, the new location—with red-and-black accents, TVs, and a Cajun-inspired menu—is still reminiscent of the South Charles Street original. Regulars will recognize signature dishes, like the aptly named, deep-fried Heart Attack burger (stuffed with cheese and battered in beer), smoky chipotle mac and cheese, and an ample wing selection. (We recommend the Sriracha barbecue wings, which had a fiery chili and garlic kick.)

The bar’s drink options cater to the craft-inclined, a far cry from Mother’s original reputation as a place to down cheap light beers. With 20 taps and 60 bottles full of selections from Union Craft, Monument City, and Flying Dog, the Timonium location is more sophisticated than its city counterpart.

There’s also an extensive bourbon list (with flight options) and a bourbon night every Wednesday. Mother’s trademark crushes are still a highlight. We tried the Tropical Crush, inspired by Rather’s brother (also co-owner and chef) Adam, who lived in the Virgin Islands. The cocktail­­—a mix of rum, coconut cream, pineapple and orange juices, grenadine, fruit, and crushed ice in a pint glass­­—transported us to the white beaches of the Caribbean.

Though Mother’s North is experiencing some growing pains (the design still closely resembles its former occupant), the newest incarnation of the Federal Hill stalwart reminds us that age is just a number.