Finding a Safe Harbor

The Chasseur sailed into its full-fledged identity in September. The restaurant, named after a ship that was dubbed the original Pride of Baltimore, took over the space that was once Adam’s Eve Gastropub in Canton, adding its own imprint in cosmetic improvements and food. The menu by executive chef Sean Praglowski features upscale comfort food like buttermilk-fried chicken and Baltimore-style sour-beef shorts ribs (a family recipe) with house-made potato dumplings. It also takes its role seriously as a neighborhood place by offering sandwiches and burgers, including a veggie one.

We wondered how the restaurant would fare after its Adam’s Eve proprietor and chef Mark Littleton left. He was known for his cooking chops. But we’re happy to report that the kitchen has not missed a beat under Praglowski.

The caramelized butternut squash soup was a creamy delight with spiced pumpkin seeds and cinnamon crème fraîche. We also were intrigued by the chicken lettuce wraps—three huge leaves cradling tender chicken, toasted peanuts, carrots, jalapeño peppers, and red onion in a Thai-peanut vinaigrette. And that was just the beginning of the meal.

Our waitress Jocelyn was a sweetheart, taking the time to share the story behind The Chasseur’s (pronounced sha-sur) name and highlight the menu items which are subject to change. The cheeseburger, meatballs, and meatloaf are all made from local beef, she told us.

That clinched the deal for us as we opted for the meatloaf dabbed with bacon-horseradish jam and served with mashed potatoes and roasted Brussels sprouts. We also liked the braised pork pappardelle with wide ribbons of pasta tossed with meat, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, and spinach in a natural jus.

The desserts, made in house, are just as nurturing as the savory dishes—French-toast bread pudding with a melon-sized scoop of vanilla ice cream and camomile-tea crème brûlée with honey-glazed pound cake.

The Chasseur’s owner David Tobash has fashioned a casual, white-tablecloth bistro to appeal not just to the residents but to anyone in search of a good meal at a reasonable price.

›› The Chasseur, 3328 Foster Ave., 410-327-6984. Hours: 6 p.m.-1 a.m. Mon., 4-10 p.m. Tues.-Wed., 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Thurs.-Fri., 12 p.m.-1 a.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-1 a.m. Sun., includes brunch. Appetizers: $8-11; sandwiches: $12-15; entrees: $17-27; desserts: $8.