Peep Show

Sponsored by St. Michaels, in Talbot County MD.

We love city life as much as any urbanite, but when Mother Nature puts on her annual extravaganza, there’s no better time to fly the coop. And while soaring high above forests painted red, yellow, and orange isn’t entirely possible without wings, we’ve got the next best thing: a plethora of places to enjoy a hawk’s-eye view of the fall palette. (There are no guarantees, of course, but prime leaf-peeping season usually falls around mid-October.) Some of these panoramic perches are close to home, while others are a day’s drive. But whether you’re a leaf loyalist or leafing out for the first time, our viewfinder, including ideas for dining and lodging (all aboard for a night’s sleep on a red caboose!), covers all the options. One caveat: The magic and mystery of some of these spots is that they are remote, so be forewarned that taking a car hike for sustenance or a place to sleep might be required. Now, into the woods.

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PANORAMIC PEAKS

Bear Rocks Preserve,
Dolly Sods Wilderness Petersburg, WV

Barren. Beautiful. Otherworldly. If you’ve ever visited this ridge-top preserve, you know how eerily enchanting it can be. The barrens’ whitish-gray boulders stand out more vividly in the fall, when the blueberry and huckleberry bushes turn crimson red and the treetops below the ridge blaze with color. Monongahela National Forest, Cheat-Potomac Ranger District, 304-257-4488.

Refuel: Make tracks to the Hickory Dining Room in Canaan Valley Resort State Park’s main lodge and feast on braised short ribs, meatloaf, and grilled salmon. 230 Main Lodge Rd., Davis, WV, 800-622-4121.

nod off: Consider a stay at a cabin or cottage at the newly renovated Canaan Valley Resort. Room rates start at $119/night.

Dan’s Rock Midland, MD

Beloved by I-68 travelers and Frostburg State University students (both mere minutes away), Dan’s Rock (2,898 feet) is the highest point in Allegany County. Enjoy sensational views of the upper Potomac River Valley from this outcropping atop Dan’s Mountain and its new gazebo. Locals say sunsets are simply awesome. Allegany County Department of Tourism, 301-777-5132.

Refuel: Fill up on fresh seafood and house-made desserts at City Lights American Grill & Bar. 59 Baltimore St., Cumberland, 301-722-9800.

nod off: Alpacas at River’s Edge Farm includes a kitchen (and access to real alpacas!); $100/night. 20020 Potomac Overlook, Oldtown, 301-478-5424.

High Rock Cascade, MD

This South Mountain overlook has a fan following with its own Facebook page. (And judging by an abundance of graffiti, also its own version of a message board.) Join the Appalachian Trail hikers and visitors to nearby Pen Mar Park, who find the vistas from this 1,800-foot peak irresistible. South Mountain Recreation Area, 301-791-4767.

Refuel: After a day of exertion, the historic Carriage House Inn is a good place to stuff yourself silly on seafood scampi and veal Oscar. 200 S. Seton Ave., Emmitsburg, 301-447-2366.

nod off: Visit the Land of Nod in the comfort of your own luxury log cabin at Ole Mink Farm Recreation Resort. Cabins for two cost $350 for a two-night minimum stay. 12806 Mink Farm Rd., Thurmont, 301-271-7012.

Seneca Rocks Elkins, WV

One of the region’s most dramatic rock formations, Seneca Rocks’ narrow slabs thrust 900-feet skyward. One way to reach the top is to climb their sheer walls. The acrophobic may prefer taking the 1.3-mile uphill trail that leads to an observation deck near the summit. Seneca Rocks Discovery Center, 304-567-2827.

Refuel: Designer pizzas and an inventive roster of pastas round out the menu at C.J. Maggie’s. 309 Davis Ave., Elkins, WV, 304-636-1730.

nod off: The Holiday Inn Express is nothing fancy, but it’s clean and offers reasonable rates, starting at $117/night. 50 Martin St., Elkins, WV, 304-630-2266.

VALLEY VISTAS

Hawk Point Overlook Drumore, PA

The 400-foot-high cliffs lining the lower Susquehanna River in small-but-scenic Susquehannock State Park offer terrific river tableaus. Feed one of the overlook’s coin-operated viewers and focus downstream, where you’ll see a renowned bald eagle sanctuary (Mt. Johnson Island) and, farther on, the upper Conowingo Reservoir. Susquehannock State Park, 717-548-3361.

Refuel: There’s something for everyone at the family-friendly Dolce Vita Pizzeria & Grill, specializing in subs, cheesesteaks, and, of course, pizza. 33 Friendly Dr., Quarryville, PA, 717-284-4499.

nod off: It’s not every day you have the chance to sleep in a historic train car, so hop on board The Red Caboose Motel for a unique experience. Rates start at $85/night. 312 Paradise Ln., Ronks, PA, 717-687-5000.

Hogback Overlook
at Skyline Drive Rileyville, VA

Picking one’s favorite Skyline Drive overlook isn’t easy, but we’ll go with Hogback (milepost 21). The longest of the park’s 75 vistas, it boasts (arguably) the most Zen panorama of the Shenandoah Valley, featuring Massanutten Mountain’s twin ridges and many river bends. Gaze away—and remember to breathe. Shenandoah National Park, 540-999-3500.

Refuel: For a splurge, dinner at The Inn at Little Washington ($208 per person on a Saturday night) wins every area accolade. 309 Middle St., Washington, VA, 540-675-3800.

nod off: No need to wander in search of slumber, book a room at The Inn at Little Washington, a historic structure, considered one of the top hotels in the state. Rooms start at $460/night.

Jennings Randolph Lake
MD Overlook Bloomington, MD

Maryland and West Virginia share this impoundment of the Potomac River’s North Branch. Each state has an overlook and Maryland’s is crazy gorgeous. See the length of the lake, the dam, and miles of mountainsides without even leaving the parking lot. Jennings Randolph Lake Recreation Area, 304-355-2346.

Refuel: Settle in to a plate of surf and turf or filet mignon at Dutch’s at Silver Tree. 567 Glendale Rd., Oakland, 301-387-0525.

nod off: The Inn at Deep Creek is a recently renovated rustic retreat with fireplaces and a pet-friendly policy. Rooms start at $179.99/night. 19638 Garrett Hwy., Oakland, 301-387-5534.

Woodstock Tower
Observation Site Woodstock, VA

Take a scenic mountain (Massanutten). Build a tower on it (Woodstock Tower). What you get are 360-degree views of the Shenandoah Valley that will blow you away. If you don’t mind a two-mile hike (or heights), this overlook may beat anything Skyline Drive has to offer—and it’s free. George Washington & Jefferson National Forests, Lee Ranger District, 540-984-4101.

Refuel: Indulge in sandwiches and burgers at Spring House Tavern. 325 S. Main St., Woodstock, VA, 540-459-4755.

nod off: Holiday Inn Express Woodstock is in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley and offers a complimentary breakfast. Rooms start at $100/night. 1130 Motel Dr., Woodstock, VA, 540-459-5000.

WONDERFUL WATERFALLS

Blackwater Falls Davis, WV

Dramatic and alluring, Blackwater Falls and its plunge pool are the supermodels of West Virginia nature photography. The Blackwater River’s tannin-stained waters plummet some 57 feet over a broad ledge, before sluicing down a deep, scenic gorge. For close-up shots, take the long wooden stairway to the falls overlook. Blackwater Falls State Park, 304-259-5216.

Refuel: Burritos and beer at Hellbenders Burritos are the perfect après-trail treats. 457 William Ave., Davis, WV, 304-259-5557.

nod off: After enjoying the falls, take a plunge in the hot tub at Blackwater Falls State Park Lodge. Rooms start at $97. 1584 Blackwater Lodge Rd., Davis, 800-225-5982.

Great Falls Potomac, MD & McLean, VA

Great Falls appears equal parts rock and river as the Potomac descends 76 feet in less than a mile. Whitewater kayakers may disagree, but our favorite vistas are the national park overlooks. Try Olmsted Island’s dramatic perch atop the falls in Maryland or the upstream view from Overlook 1 in Virginia. MD: Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, Great Falls Tavern Visitor Center, 301-767-3714;< VA: Great Falls Park, 703-285-2965.

Refuel: The Old Angler’s Inn excels at comfort food with a modern twist. (Picture fried Amish chicken breast with Tuscan kale and carrot-ginger puree, for instance.) 10801 MacArthur Blvd., Potomac, MD, 301-365-2425.

nod off: For a trip to bygone days, rent a historic lockhouse along the C & O Canal. For more information, go to canaltrust.org or call 301-714-2233.

Muddy Creek Falls Oakland, MD

Muddy Creek remains Maryland’s most spectacular waterfall, a sheer, 53-foot drop. Located in Swallow Falls State Park, Muddy Creek bests its name-grabbing neighbor in height and its taller rival, Cunningham Falls, in free fall. Hike past towering hemlocks to the scenic overlook, and descend the stairway to snap photos. Swallow Falls State Park, 301-387-6938.

Refuel: Meat lovers will relish the steaks at Pine Lodge Steakhouse, but there are plenty of pasta, poultry, and seafood options, too. 1520 Deep Creek Dr., McHenry, 301-387-6500.

nod off: Carmel Cove Inn is a picturesque property that’s an easy drive from Swallow Falls State Park and earns rave reviews on TripAdvisor. Rooms start at $175. 105 Monastery Way, Swanton, 301-387-0067.

Ricketts Glen Benton, PA

Welcome to Oz, falls lovers. The hillsides here are bathed in cold water, as Kitchen Creek plunges over rocks and shatters into more than 20 waterfalls. Flip-flops (or ruby slippers) won’t cut it; don sturdy, non-slip footwear for hiking to Ganoga Falls (94 feet) and its smaller siblings. Ricketts Glen State Park, 570-477-5675.

Refuel: The Ricketts Glen Hotel bills itself as “conveniently located in the middle of nowhere.” Even so, you’ll find sophisticated classics such as chicken marsala and veal parmigiana on the menu. 221 State Route 118, Benton, PA, 570-477-3656.

nod off: As the name implies, Mattress and Muffin Inn is a place to get a good night’s sleep and also carbo-load for your adventure in the morning. Rooms start at $95/night. 240 Main St., Benton, PA, 570-925-5466.

GORGE-OUS SCENERY

Baughman Rock
Overlook Ohiopyle, PA

The Youghiogheny, a premier whitewater river, charges through the heart of Western Pennsylvania’s vast Ohiopyle State Park. Rapids-runners prefer the “Yough” in springtime, but leaf-peepers should visit in fall. Grab your hiking staff and hit the Baughman Rock Overlook to savor the Laurel Highlands at their most glorious. Ohiopyle State Park, 724-329-8591.

Refuel: From pasta to seafood and steak, there’s something to please every palate at River’s Edge Cafe at River’s Edge Bed and Breakfast. 203 Yough St., Confluence, PA, 814-395-5059.

nod off: Housed in an 1890s home with a wraparound porch and river views, River’s Edge Bed and Breakfast is the epitome of charm. Rooms are $75/night.

Coopers Rock
Overlook Bruceton Mills, WV

Spanning the treetops, a rustic stone-and-timber bridge leads you to Coopers Rock Overlook and its incredible views of the Cheat River Gorge some 1,900 feet below. The Civilian Conservation Corps developed Coopers Rock during the Great Depression. Several of the CCC’s original structures survive, including the overlook’s carved steps and nearby picnic shelters. Coopers Rock State Forest, 304-594-1561.

Refuel: If you don’t spot any bears on your hike, you can catch them over quesadillas at Black Bear Burritos. 132 Pleasant St., Morgantown, WV, 304-296-8696.

nod off: A pet-friendly atmosphere plus complimentary breakfast equal happiness for the weary traveler at Microtel Inn & Suites By Wyndham. Rooms start at $109/night. 886 Casteel Rd., Hazelton, WV, 304-379-7900.

Evitts Mountain Flintstone, MD

What mends a broken heart better than the solace of a wilderness canyon? So reasoned a lovelorn 18th-century Englishman who built his home high above Rocky Gap Run. Stroll easy Canyon Overlook Trail for dramatic vistas of the cliff-lined gorge or descend into Rocky Gap Canyon, before ascending to the summit. Rocky Gap State Park, 125000 Pleasant Valley Rd., Flintstone, 301-722-1480.

Refuel: The all-you-can-eat buffet at Lakeside Restaurant in Rocky Gap Casino Resort can quiet those powerful pangs of hunger. 16701 Lake View Rd., Flintstone, 301-784-8400.

nod off: Given that the new casino is a stone’s throw from the park, if you haven’t spent all your money on gear at REI, try your luck at the slots. Rooms start at $149/night.

Mt. Minsi Delaware Water Gap, PA

Like opposing watchtowers, Mt. Minsi (PA) and Mt. Tammany (NJ) survey the magnificent Delaware Water Gap. The roughly 1,500-foot peaks were ridge mates until the Delaware River carved a rift between them. Best view? Although Tammany’s taller (slightly), skip I-80’s bridge toll and traffic, park in Pennsylvania and hike Minsi.
 Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, 570-828-2253.

Refuel: Soups, salads, and foods of land and sea are the menu mainstays at Sycamore Grille. 92 Main St., Delaware Water Gap, PA, 570-426-1200.

nod off: Deer Head Inn’s jazz club, founded in 1953, is said to be the oldest continually running jazz venue in the country. Go there for a little night music and a place to rest your head. Rooms start at $90. 5 Main St., Delaware Water Gap, PA, 570-424-2000.

HIGHS FOR HIKERS

Annapolis Rock/
Black Rock Cliff Myersville, MD

Hike this popular Appalachian Trail route along the spine of South Mountain to a pair of stunning overlooks. Annapolis Rock (1,700 feet) juts from the mountain’s west flank, boasting views of forest, mountains, and Greenbrier Lake. Black Rock (1,800 feet) looks out on a lovely patchwork of farms and fields. South Mountain State Park, 301-791-4767.

Refuel: Slake your thirst with beer and fill your belly with burgers at Dan’s Restaurant & Taphouse. 3 S. Main St., Boonsboro, 301-432-5224.

Refuel: Book lovers will delight in a night at Inn BoonsBoro, where every room is named after a famous literary character. Rooms start at $255/night. 1 N. Main St., Boonsboro, 301-432-1188.

Cat Rock &
Bobs Hill Thurmont, MD

You may huff and puff getting there, but the views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Frederick Valley are stupendous from these rocky spots atop Catoctin Mountain. Cat Rock (1,560 feet) and Bobs Hill (1,765 feet) lie within a nature preserve that harbors black bears and bobcats. Cunningham Falls State Park, 301-271-7574.

Refuel: Unwind over lamb chops and lobster tails at Dobbin House Tavern, Gettysburg’s oldest home (dated 1776). 89 Steinwehr Ave., Gettysburg, PA, 717-334-2100.

nod off: Take in the serene solitude at The Lodges at Gettysburg and continue communing with nature. 685 Camp Gettysburg Rd., Gettsyburg, PA, 717-642-2500.

Chimney Rock/
Wolf Rock Thurmont, MD

A rugged two-mile hike through Catoctin Mountain Park pays off at a pair of ancient, deeply creviced rock formations. Chimney Rock earns an A+ for its vistas; less scenic Wolf Rock is just fun to clamber on. Not recommended for tots or pets. Catoctin Mountain Park, 301-663-9388.

Refuel: Pan-steamed mussels and paella beckon at Isabella’s Taverna & Tapas Bar. 44 N. Market St., Frederick, 301-698-8922.

nod off: Best Western Historic Frederick is conveniently located within a few miles of the historic and vibrant downtown. Rooms start at $92.99/night. 420 Prospect Blvd., Frederick, 301-695-6200.

Old Rag Mountain Sperryville, VA

Notorious for its beauty and its difficulty, the four-mile hike/scramble up Shenandoah National Park’s Old Rag Mountain lures legions of fall hikers. Your challenge: climbing, crawling, and squeezing through miles of boulders to reach the 3,291-foot summit. Your reward: perhaps the best perch in all of the Blue Ridge. Shenandoah National Park, 540-999-3500.

Refuel: Artisanal sandwiches or more filling fare such as rib-eye steak are on offer at Artisan’s Grill. 2 East Main St., Luray, VA, 540-743-7030.

nod off: The Mimsyln Inn offers old-world décor and modern amenities. Rooms start at $135/night. 401 West Main St., Luray, VA, 800-296-5105.