Maryland's Other Beach

We love the beach. But sometimes, when we’re sitting in traffic on
the Bay Bridge, contemplating higher tolls and the mob scene in Ocean
City, we begin to wonder: Isn’t there another great vacation spot
nearby?

As it turns out, there is. From Baltimore, just point your car in the
opposite direction of the Eastern Shore, drive the same three hours,
and you’ll end up at Deep Creek Lake, a treasure trove of summer fun
without the crowds.

For the locals and visitors who come every year—many of whom have
summer houses on the lake, which has 69 miles of coastline and is the
largest inland body of water in the state—it is a well-guarded secret.
(Sorry, guys!) The lake’s sandy beach, with swimming and multiple
boating options; a surprising diversity of warm-weather activities, many
at nearby Wisp Resort (296 Marsh Hill Rd., 301-387-4911, http://www.wispresort.com);
a great nature center; and lots of dining and shopping attractions make
it an excellent, family-friendly alternative to the ocean.

The drive from Baltimore is a sightseeing adventure in itself,
passing through Frederick and Cumberland, either of which would be a
good place to stop for lunch. In our case, as our two- and
four-year-olds dozed in the back, my wife and I just enjoyed the quiet
and gorgeous scenery—particularly Cumberland’s glorious old architecture
and church spires.

The lake itself is nestled in the western tip of Maryland, just miles
from both the Pennsylvania and West Virginia borders. It’s surrounded
by state parks, including Deep Creek Lake State Park, New Germany State
Park, and Rocky Gap State Park, each of which offers campsites and
hiking (http://dnr.state.md.us has information on all state parks).

In fact, on our first night in the area, we joined up with some
friends who were camping in New Germany for a pleasant short hike to the
lake, followed by some fireside guitar-strumming and s’mores (no doubt
the highlight for the under-five set). The kids—or more correctly, their
parents—weren’t ready to endure a night under the stars, so we
hightailed it out at bedtime.

If you’re not into the idea of roughing it at a campsite, you might
prefer to rent one of the many comfortable homes nestled in the woods
around the lake, many with their own private docks and boats. (The
Garrett County Chamber of Commerce’s site, http://www.visitdeepcreek.com,
is a good place to look for rentals.) Alternatively, Wisp makes for an
excellent base of operations, with the added amenities of an indoor
pool, several restaurants, and easy access to all of the area’s best
attractions.

We stayed at Wisp, which is probably better known as a ski resort. It
was really a deal at $129 a night, especially compared to the cost of
hotels on the Eastern Shore. We all shared a two-bed suite, which,
frankly, was a little tight, particularly for our kids who are early
risers. It would probably work great for older kids. (Good tip for
parents looking for an activity before breakfast: The front desk is
surprisingly okay with you borrowing the bellhop’s luggage rack to give
your tykes rides around the premises.)

Wherever you sleep (or don’t), we recommend waking up to a big,
homestyle breakfast at Annie’s Kitchen Country Restaurant (414 S. Main
St., 301-746-8578), one of the many family-run eateries along Main
Street in nearby Accident (you’d think they wouldn’t use that name so
close to a ski resort!) or McHenry. Fluffy omelets and biscuits and
gravy are house specialties. And, if you brought the kids, ask for the
box of toys, along with crayons so they can draw on the paper
tablecloths.

After fueling up, head to the lake, where there is an outdoor beach
hut that rents boats and gear for an active day or umbrellas and chairs
for a totally inactive one with a book beachside.

Guides will also rent you paddleboards and one-person or two-person
kayaks (the doubles are perfect for exploring with young kids), along
with life jackets and paddles. They can point you in the direction of
the best spots to observe migrating birds. We found that looking at the
homes, docks, and boats—some, especially spectacular—along the shores
was just as much of an attraction. There are also plenty of clearings
around the lake where you can pull up and enjoy your own totally
secluded piece of beach. Try imagining that anywhere near the carousel
in Ocean City.

My four-year-old and I had terrific bonding time in a double kayak
out on the lake. He was so proud to help steer and navigate and
investigate our surroundings with me. He lasted a solid hour before
falling asleep in his berth, paddle at the ready. Did I mention we
didn’t sleep well?

If you want to be on the lake, but with less paddling, book a pontoon
boat tour, which leaves from the Deep Creek Lake Discovery Center (898
State Park Rd., 301-387-7067), near the beach hut. The partially covered
boats will take you all over the man-made lake and explain its history
and development. Our crew loved catching the breeze—and some surf—on the
high-speed excursion. Try a sunset cruise for the especially
extraordinary views. There are also plenty of boats and instructors for
hire at or near the lake, offering waterskiing, tubing, fly fishing, and
whitewater rafting. Wisp Resort Lakeside Club (1077 Deep Creek Dr.,
301-387-8861) is a good place to start.

For lunch, you can feast on burgers and dogs sold right off the grill
at the beach hut, or head to one of the many restaurants just off the
lake. Our favorite was Canoe on the Run (2622 Deep Creek Dr.,
301-387-5933), which offers great wraps, sandwiches, and starters, like a
smoked-Gouda-and-caramelized-onion quesadilla, served on a beautifully
rustic deck amid the woods by the lake.

The Discovery Center is a destination in itself, especially if the
weather isn’t cooperating. Filled with snakes and other critters—some
alive, some stuffed—the place aims to educate about the history and
ecology of the lake and its environs. There are lots of classes and
activities, too.

Whether you’re staying at Wisp or not, the resort has many activities
for summer visitors. There’s a full 18-hole golf course on the
premises, but the newest and (for our money) greatest attraction is the
Flying Squirrel Canopy Tour, which allows adults and kids over 10 years
old to fly among the trees on zip lines, ranging from 180 to 400 feet on
a course that also includes rope and plank walks.

New this summer, Wisp has added adventure courses for younger kids,
too. The Chipmunk Challenge Course, for ages four and up, includes two
zip lines of 60 and 200 feet, along with various climbing and swinging
stations. Squirrels Den and Marsh Mountain Mining Company are two
features designed for kids two and up and include a smaller climbing
adventure course and a mock mine, where kids can sift through the sluice
for gems. Another good choice for the littlest visitors is the duck and
swan paddleboats on the nearby pond.

The Mountain Coaster is as thrilling as the zip lines, and available
to kids as young as three years old (with an adult). It’s a true one-car
roller coaster, full of drops and spins, which is entirely controlled
by gravity. Each car has its own hand air-brake that allows users to
control just how scary they would like the ride to be. My little guy,
apprehensive at first, wanted to ride this again and again.

If you’re looking for a more relaxed view from the top of the
mountain, take the scenic chairlift, which runs year-round. You can stop
at the top for lunch at the Pumphouse Cafe, or make it a round-trip
ride. If you can’t resist the slopes, rent a mountain bike and helmet,
and hit the trails that range from beginner-friendly and cross-country
to freestyle and expert downhill.

Among the other landlubber diversions at Wisp are Mountain
Buggies—off-road vehicles sure to make a mess. Rent coveralls for $10
and get revving. There are also Segway tours—although these aren’t your
typical mall gliders: Fitted with all-terrain tires, these bad boys run
on a bumpy mountain course.

Older kids might appreciate the nine-hole disc-golf course or the
skate park, which offers board, in-line skate, and helmet rentals.

Parents looking for time alone can take the kids ages five to 12 to
the Adventure Day Program at Wisp, where they’ll take part in activities
at the beach and at the resort, supervised by counselors. And on
Saturday nights, Wisp offers “Kids Night Out,” where the little ones
join other kids their own age for entertainment while mom and dad go out
on the town.

You won’t necessarily find fine dining or glamorous nightlife here,
but you will enjoy the sweet, warm comforts of country living.

We won’t hold the name against DC’s Bar & Restaurant at Wisp,
which offers a cozy setting for a relaxed meal with dishes ranging from
steaks and seafood to sushi and tacos. The Deer Park Inn (65 Hotel Rd.,
301-334-2308, http://www.deerparkinn.com),
just a couple minutes from the lake, offers a more refined setting for
American-influenced French cuisine, like house-made country pâté with
cornichons, petite filet of beef with Cabernet Sauvignon sauce, or
chicken “savoyard” with bacon and Swiss cheese.

Another dinner option is Archie’s Barbeque (25259 Garrett Hwy., 301-387-7400, http://www.archiesbbq.com) with its luscious baby-back ribs, pulled pork, burritos, and wraps.

If you (or, more likely, your kids) can’t live without the rides,
go-karts, mini golf, and arcades that they’re used to at the Boardwalk,
visit the redundantly-named Funland Family Fun Center (24450 Garrett
Hwy., 301-387-6168, http://www.deepcreekfunland.com) or one of several other similar amusement spots in the region.

We stopped at Funland on our way out of town. It was, indeed,
fun—and, more importantly, it served the useful purpose of exhausting
the kids for the ride home. But mostly, it reminded us of what a
wonderful, nature-filled time we had without all that noise.